97 bonny w/climate control issues - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-18-2009, 10:33 AM   #11
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I just rechecked the vacuum I am able to change to full defrost, full floor vent & full dash vent. changes quickly and smooth. Now the white vacuum line did not do anything, air moved to its normal default position split floor & defrost. Through all this I was not able to change over to heat although it felt somwhat like ambient air. The A/C was running during this process. Is the white vacuum line for Heat/A/C. What controls the heater/A/C flap? is that what the mix acuator does?
As I am under there looking for a bad wire for head should I just pull out the programmer?
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:35 AM   #12
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Yes, the actuator is an electric servo (motor) mounted to the top of the heater core box cover. There is a (dummmmbbbbbbbbbb) connector from the HVAC programmer to the actuator. It comes out of the top of the programmer and makes grown men want to cry their first time dealing with it.

The easiest way to check the actuator function is to pull the glovebox insert. You will see a solid dash support with a couple holes. Looking at the left ones, look for a white arm connected to a silver metal rod. That'* attached to the actuator. Start the car and move temp from full hot to full cold (once you get the - - - fixed. It takes approximately 45 seconds for the actuator to make complete changes and keep in mind the system will not attempt to supply heat when the car isnt' at operating tempuerature unless the system is put on full max heat.

There are two screws that hold the programmer to the heater box cover. One is easy and the other is located in a poor place. Ratcheting wrenches would be your friend. Although I think they are 7mm heads. Remember, the programmer has wiring coming out of the top that you can not see.
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:41 AM   #13
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BTW, here'* a guide one of the guys did up.

http://www.trialsnuts.com/ecc.pdf

I was able to remove another module near the programmer to gain room to get my arm up there and using one finger pushed the connector tab on the wires to the actuator and unhooked it. Not visible, not easy, but if you can picture it in your head..it'* good.

Only other thing is remove the heater core cover is helpful to get the scrrews that hold the actuator.
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Old 09-18-2009, 01:01 PM   #14
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Are there pins inside the programmer? the pins outside are fine, by removing the vacuum plug on the side of programmer is where I jumped the vacuum, I think it was the pink line that pulls vac.
The vacuum lines getting soft that I read here about are they lines in the programmer also? Need to know what drives the heat/A/C door
thanks
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Old 09-18-2009, 02:21 PM   #15
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Yes, there are lines inside the programmer. The area that usually fails is in the middle of the clear plastic.
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Old 09-18-2009, 03:22 PM   #16
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Wow I'm glad I don't do this for a living anymore! I used to do this ()**%&* in my sleep. Do not even know if I want to do it, sounds like I need to replace the actuator. Between needing glasses, dexterity in my fingers (not what it used to be) pointer finger left hand especially (lost it 8 years ago and they sewed it back on), flexability in my joints and my lower back, neck and shoulders a pain (20 years former mechanic). and to top it off, comming off of my second knee surgery in 2 years.
I may give it a shot over the weekend (as long as the honey-do list is'nt to bad).
Thanks for the info and the link.
Kevin
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