'96 Bonneville, won't start, crank, or click - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-29-2006, 06:15 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLB
One of guys helping the other day tested the key and said it was fine.
I'm afraid this doesn't help because we don't know how it was tested. He would have had to check the resistance of the key pellet & then insert the key & see if the same (or very close) resistance is at the orange wires coming from the steering column.

I'd either do the Vats bypass or go to a dealer & have a new key made. Resistors at Radio Shack should be less than $1.00.
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Old 08-29-2006, 07:58 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLB
One of guys helping the other day tested the key and said it was fine.
I'm afraid this doesn't help because we don't know how it was tested. He would have had to check the resistance of the key pellet & then insert the key & see if the same (or very close) resistance is at the orange wires coming from the steering column.
Well - I wondered about this myself, and questioned my husband about it, but since I know almost zilch about cars, my questions and suggestions sometimes have limited effect.

Quote:
I'd either do the Vats bypass or go to a dealer & have a new key made. Resistors at Radio Shack should be less than $1.00.
I'm guessing a new key is pretty expensive?

So if we do the Vats bypass - that shouldn't hurt anything, regardless of the actual cause of the problem, correct?
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Old 08-29-2006, 08:16 PM   #23
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New key could be $20 -$30 but I'm just guessing. The key would only help if the contacts are very worn. The lock cylinder could be what'* bad.

The only downside to the Vats bypass is that the car would be easier to steal. Best thing to do is check to see if the orange wires are showing the resistance of the key. You probably don't even have to cut the wires, there should be a connector between the dash & the steering column.
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Old 08-30-2006, 12:24 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLB
Well - I wondered about this myself, and questioned my husband about it, but since I know almost zilch about cars, my questions and suggestions sometimes have limited effect.
So if we do the Vats bypass - that shouldn't hurt anything, regardless of the actual cause of the problem, correct?
Rule #1 - it'* okay to be a nag and ask the questions. Trust me... I'm good at it. You seem to have a great common sense and comprehension of these new terms - asking is how you learn. Don't give up asking the questions until you are satisfied that he understands and has answered them to your satifaction. I knew absolutey nothing about cars before this club... now I still know very little but I do know where to get the info.

My son'* car acts in a similar manner.... haven't figured that one out yet because he doesn't want to be bothered. He just deals with it.

Hey Technical Ted - what fuse did Ditchboy replace that day you came down?
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Old 08-30-2006, 08:30 AM   #25
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Disclaimer: We are not responsible if following Singscountry'* advice results in divorce...

(Tracy.. asking about that fuse probably isn't good in this post. It may lead to people going down the slightly off topic path if they look this up later)
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Old 08-30-2006, 02:49 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Disclaimer: We are not responsible if following Singscountry'* advice results in divorce...

(Tracy.. asking about that fuse probably isn't good in this post. It may lead to people going down the slightly off topic path if they look this up later)
Lol...Boosty'* got a point about the disclaimer...
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Old 08-30-2006, 06:00 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singscountry1967
Hey Technical Ted - what fuse did Ditchboy replace that day you came down?

Fuse? You want them to check a fuse?!?!

Pretty good idea actually. Three different Gearheads & none of us suggests checking the fuse! It was the driver'* side fuse panel & according to the diagram should be fuse #2 but check them all if it hasn't been done already.
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Old 08-30-2006, 10:16 PM   #28
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I've had the same problem. I haven't dealt with it yet, but if I had to stab at it, you COULD have a bad ignition switch.
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Old 09-02-2006, 12:46 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singscountry1967
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLB
Well - I wondered about this myself, and questioned my husband about it, but since I know almost zilch about cars, my questions and suggestions sometimes have limited effect.
So if we do the Vats bypass - that shouldn't hurt anything, regardless of the actual cause of the problem, correct?
Rule #1 - it'* okay to be a nag and ask the questions. Trust me... I'm good at it. You seem to have a great common sense and comprehension of these new terms - asking is how you learn. Don't give up asking the questions until you are satisfied that he understands and has answered them to your satifaction. I knew absolutey nothing about cars before this club... now I still know very little but I do know where to get the info.

My son'* car acts in a similar manner.... haven't figured that one out yet because he doesn't want to be bothered. He just deals with it.

Hey Technical Ted - what fuse did Ditchboy replace that day you came down?


Thanks much singscountry1967. I will commit Rule #1 to memory.
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Old 09-02-2006, 12:48 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Disclaimer: We are not responsible if following Singscountry'* advice results in divorce...
And the disclaimer is duly noted.
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