Sorry - searched for something to help so I wouldn't have to start a new thread, but didn't find what I was looking for so gave up and here I am.

You guys were great a year ago when we had to replace our UIM so we're crying for help again.

We went to run errands, car worked fine, but then after our first stop the car wouldn't start again. It doesn't crank, or even click. Just nothing. All power works, lights, radio, bells, etc., but nothing to the starter. Checked fuses - all seem fine. :?

Tommorow, when it gets daylight out. Go out and disconnect the battery. Check all connections for corrosion and clean if need be. Make sure you pull those battery boots back also! Clean the battery contacts while your at it. Check the connections down on the side of the engine and at the starter. If all is good and you didn't need to clean much. Try swapping batteries with a known good one. I had a brand new battery sit in the car for a winter and would never hold a charge after spring. Then report back with your findings.

Also check the voltage of the battery. Check when you are turning the key, how many volts are coming off the measurement. Normally it should go from 12 volts to ~10 maybe 9. If it is going any lower than that either something is pulling too much off the battery or the battery is done.

But check for corrosion especially under the rubber pieces. I learned that from here a few days ago, and it helps. Use baking soda and water with a tooth brush or something.

Does the security light go out after having the key in run position for 5-6 seconds? If the light goes out and the battery & connections are good then you can check for 12 volts going to the small wire (purple?) on the starter solenoid. If you're getting 12 volts to the small wire then the starter & or solenoid is bad.

What do the lights do when you try to start the car? Do they dim or go out? If they do, then either the battery does not have enough charge, or there is a corrosion problem. If they do not dim at all, the starter is not drawing any current so we'll have to look somewhere other than the battery.

PS - If the security light goes out but you don't have 12 volts at the small wire then try starting in neutral.

Thanks guys.

He said it'* not the battery.

(Of course - he said it wasn't the hub cap either, but that'* another story. )

Anyway - still nothing by way of the ignition, but he'* got a retired mechanic friend helping now, and they ran a wire from the battery to the solenoid and used a switch to start it and it starts right up every time, but dies after about ten seconds.

What'* the security light doing?

The security light comes on like it should, and then goes out when the car dies.

If the car starts that way and then dies after a few seconds..that would point to the fuel pump relay being disabled.

Vats will prime the fuel pump..but not kick on the relay further.

Consider trying another key or measuring the resistance on the key being used. I'd almost think there'* an issue.

FP relay power can be tested at the green connector behind the battery.