'96 Bonneville, won't start, crank, or click
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
If the car starts that way and then dies after a few seconds..that would point to the fuel pump relay being disabled.
Vats will prime the fuel pump..but not kick on the relay further.
Consider trying another key or measuring the resistance on the key being used. I'd almost think there'* an issue.
FP relay power can be tested at the green connector behind the battery.
Vats will prime the fuel pump..but not kick on the relay further.
Consider trying another key or measuring the resistance on the key being used. I'd almost think there'* an issue.
FP relay power can be tested at the green connector behind the battery.
How do you measure the resistance on the key?
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
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From: Enfield, CT
If the fuel pump is still pumping then this sounds like the spark timing isn't getting handed off by the PCM..
We need to test the green connector for power and double check what the fuel pressure is as the car dies.
The resistance is measured with an OHM meter by putting one lead on each side of the pellet in the key.
We need to test the green connector for power and double check what the fuel pressure is as the car dies.
The resistance is measured with an OHM meter by putting one lead on each side of the pellet in the key.
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
If the fuel pump is still pumping then this sounds like the spark timing isn't getting handed off by the PCM..
We need to test the green connector for power and double check what the fuel pressure is as the car dies.
The resistance is measured with an OHM meter by putting one lead on each side of the pellet in the key.
We need to test the green connector for power and double check what the fuel pressure is as the car dies.
The resistance is measured with an OHM meter by putting one lead on each side of the pellet in the key.
Anyway - another guy showed up with his diagnostic equipment and he said everything checked out fine except it showed there was a problem with the neutral safety switch. Does that sound about right? Just curious. Don't want to buy a part only find out that'* not the problem, so just wondered what you thought.
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by MLB
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
If the fuel pump is still pumping then this sounds like the spark timing isn't getting handed off by the PCM..
We need to test the green connector for power and double check what the fuel pressure is as the car dies.
The resistance is measured with an OHM meter by putting one lead on each side of the pellet in the key.
We need to test the green connector for power and double check what the fuel pressure is as the car dies.
The resistance is measured with an OHM meter by putting one lead on each side of the pellet in the key.
Anyway - another guy showed up with his diagnostic equipment and he said everything checked out fine except it showed there was a problem with the neutral safety switch. Does that sound about right? Just curious. Don't want to buy a part only find out that'* not the problem, so just wondered what you thought.
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From: Western New York
Here'* a wiring diagram that may help you. We really need to know what the security light is doing when the key is turned to the run position. It should light for several seconds then go out. If it stays lit then you'll want to do the Vats bypass.
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Here'* a wiring diagram that may help you. We really need to know what the security light is doing when the key is turned to the run position. It should light for several seconds then go out. If it stays lit then you'll want to do the Vats bypass.
Okay - turns out the security light does stay on when the key is in the run position.
What is the Vats bypass? :?
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From: Western New York
What happens is the contacts in the ignition switch stop reading the resistance of the pellet in the key. This could be due to the contacts in the switch or the contacts on the pellet being worn or dirty. Some members have switched keys & or cleaned the contacts with good results.
The Vats bypass is done by finding the resistance of the pellet & wiring in a resistor of the same value. A Radio Shack or any store that puts in remote starters should be able to supply you with a resistor(*) to match your key. You'll find two orange wires inside a white sleeve coming from the steering column. You simply cut the wires & connect the resistors to the wire that comes from the dash. You can just leave the wire coming from the steering column hanging. There is no power in those wires after you make the cut.
The Vats bypass is done by finding the resistance of the pellet & wiring in a resistor of the same value. A Radio Shack or any store that puts in remote starters should be able to supply you with a resistor(*) to match your key. You'll find two orange wires inside a white sleeve coming from the steering column. You simply cut the wires & connect the resistors to the wire that comes from the dash. You can just leave the wire coming from the steering column hanging. There is no power in those wires after you make the cut.
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
What happens is the contacts in the ignition switch stop reading the resistance of the pellet in the key. This could be due to the contacts in the switch or the contacts on the pellet being worn or dirty. Some members have switched keys & or cleaned the contacts with good results.
The Vats bypass is done by finding the resistance of the pellet & wiring in a resistor of the same value. A Radio Shack or any store that puts in remote starters should be able to supply you with a resistor(*) to match your key. You'll find two orange wires inside a white sleeve coming from the steering column. You simply cut the wires & connect the resistors to the wire that comes from the dash. You can just leave the wire coming from the steering column hanging. There is no power in those wires after you make the cut.
The Vats bypass is done by finding the resistance of the pellet & wiring in a resistor of the same value. A Radio Shack or any store that puts in remote starters should be able to supply you with a resistor(*) to match your key. You'll find two orange wires inside a white sleeve coming from the steering column. You simply cut the wires & connect the resistors to the wire that comes from the dash. You can just leave the wire coming from the steering column hanging. There is no power in those wires after you make the cut.
Just cleaned the contacts in the switch and on the pellet, but that didn't do anything to help. Unfortunately we only have one key.
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I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a loose contact for the 10 amp ignition fuse. The fuse was fine but where it plugged into the fuse box was loose. Crimped the socket and voila, it'* been good to go ever since.