95 se, new ingnition switch, stuck in park - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-15-2004, 02:13 PM   #21
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BTW, good idea about the library so I just checked, they have 1996 and 1997 for Park Avenue, Lesabre, Ninety-eight, Eighty-eight and Bonneville, nothing for 1995, only at the main branch, they're closed today (budget cuts), and the manuals are non-circulating/non-request.

Also closed tomorrow, so the earliest I could get copies of pages would be Tuesday!
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Old 02-15-2004, 02:40 PM   #22
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That relay is on the left hand side of the steering column, under the instrument panel, just above and to the right of the 48-way steering column connector. The other end of that wire is at the Pass Key II module, so you would have to ground it at one of those two places.

Do you remember attaching or removing two wires at the ignition key lock cylinder? That would be one white and black wire, and one purple and white wire. Those are the wires that deliver the proper resistance signal over to the Pass Key II module.
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Old 02-15-2004, 04:02 PM   #23
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OK, still can't find the starter enable relay, but did (finally) get to check voltages at other various points (temperature is now in the single digits here, it'* not an Oh-boy-lets-stay-outside-and-goof-around-with-the-car kind of day) ..

With the key in the start position,
0 volts on the small post on the starter solenoid,
0 volts on the large yellow from the electronic braking to the PN safety switch (may not have had really good contact, need to penetrate the insulation),
0 volts on both yellow wires at the ignition switch connector block.

As soon as I can find the starter enable relay I can try shorting.
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Old 02-15-2004, 04:10 PM   #24
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Quote:
Do you remember attaching or removing two wires at the ignition key lock cylinder? That would be one white and black wire, and one purple and white wire. Those are the wires that deliver the proper resistance signal over to the Pass Key II module.
No, didn't (thank goodness) do anything with those wires.
Left side of the column? The smaller square(ish) unit with a rod actuator in front and yellow, brown, and green/white wire?
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Old 02-15-2004, 04:39 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgorsha
OK, still can't find the starter enable relay, but did (finally) get to check voltages at other various points (temperature is now in the single digits here, it'* not an Oh-boy-lets-stay-outside-and-goof-around-with-the-car kind of day) ..

With the key in the start position,
0 volts on the small post on the starter solenoid,
OK, that'* the starter engage wire, no surprise there. Should be 12V+

Quote:
0 volts on the large yellow from the electronic braking to the PN safety switch (may not have had really good contact, need to penetrate the insulation),
That should be the yellow wire from the starter enable relay. Should also be 12V+. No power coming from relay.

Quote:
0 volts on both yellow wires at the ignition switch connector block.
Are there two yellow wires to the ignition switch? My diagram shows a red wire (input) and then a yellow, pink, orange, and brown wire from it. The single yellow wire that is in the diagram must have 12v+ when you turn the ignition switch to start, if not, then the switch is bad. The red wire is the power feed. Technically you should be able to put the key in the ignition (to sense the resistor pellet), put the ignition in run, and then jump the red to the yellow wire and start the car.

Quote:
As soon as I can find the starter enable relay I can try shorting.
That relay is a small square box, looks like a typical relay, and has two yellow wires, a purple wire, and a yellow/black wire. One yellow from the ignition switch and fuse panel, and the other to the Park/Neutral position switch
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Old 02-15-2004, 05:09 PM   #26
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Lets see, on the ignition switch I have pink, red, big yellow (about 10 ga.)brown, beige/white, red/white, lt green, green, and orange.

Starter enable relay (I think) has yellow, beige, and green/white, all appear to be the same gauge, yellow'* in the middle, other wires on either side.

Yep, if I short the large gauge yellow and red on the ignition switch then it turns over and I can start the engine. Tried several times, wasn't sure at first about getting a good ground, but could not measure any voltage on the large gauge yellow at the ignition switch with the key in the start position.

I'm learning more, and it'* getting interesting!
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Old 02-15-2004, 05:42 PM   #27
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Just thought of something - I picked a ground point, and checked voltage on the red at the ignition switch, measured 12 v. Kept the same ground, and checked voltage on the large yellow at the ignition switch when trying to key-start, showed 0 volts.

Bad switch?
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Old 02-15-2004, 09:07 PM   #28
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Yes sir! If you can turn on the engine by jumping the red and yellow, guess what? I would say there'* a problem with the switch.
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Old 02-15-2004, 11:13 PM   #29
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And I just replaced the switch from having a different problem, and this one never worked??!!

THANK YOU, AUTOZONE!
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Old 02-16-2004, 10:39 PM   #30
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By the way, I just noticed that there'* two red wires that go to the ignition switch, not one. Make sure they are in the right place, or you may blow fuses. How did you keep them straight?
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