Are you talking about the one with two different sized outlets? It may very well be. At this point, I would stop spending money and repair the things you know are bad. The vacuum leak can cause two of your codes.

Use a small amount of carb cleaner at idle on each of your vacuum connections. Trace them all out. Spray it around the base of the UIM as well.

When you spray the carb cleaner the RPM should stay the same. If it goes up, you have found your leak.

yea thats the one I'm talking about. I remember replacing it, but with a "so-so" part and I noticed that it ripped down the side. Is there a certain way those vacuum lines should be ran? I'm just curious if they are hooked up correctly

You should have a vacuum routing diagram under the hood on a sticker or in your owner'* manual.

oh. Well, thank YOU there sir! lol

The reason I directed you to your 'own' documentation is that there are several changes each year, especially with respect to the 96. Your vacuum routing is different than the 97, but more similar to the 95.

And the routing diagram is required by law. It has to be there in one or both locations I stated.

well, I checked for leaks with the carb cleaner. No dice. So i cleared the codes and they just came back on so i have to get them checked again. I found my trouble with the traction and abs lights, the passenger rear wheel sensor came unplugged (probably because of the desperate need for struts) So i neeeed to get some of those bad. Can anyone tell me if the o2 sensor would affect WOT? The car acts like its boggin down if you jump on it