I think I remember Nick performed service that required the battery to be disconnected. Then it started flashig when he hooked it back up.

Hmmm off to look for that thread.

EDIT: Not sure that this will or won't help. Hoping it will. Lots of good stuff to learn and maybe look at

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...43362&start=40

1. External temp sensor fault
2. Internal temp sensor fault
3. Solar sensor fault
4. Air mix door fault
5. Heat/AC contol panel fault
6. Loss of "keep alive memory" in HVAC programmer
7. Loss of serial data

can anyone explain item 6. how do you acquire "keep alive memory" if you have lost it?

can anyone explain item 7. what is serial data

i disconnected the battery this morning. i'll reconnect it later today and see if anything changes

Not sure on either, would need to look them up and don't have manuals handy.

I believe after 50 run cycles you would be all set for keep alive memory. 50 cycles can be a long time though.

That'* the same thread I linked for him earlier....

I did some reading up in the manuals last night. I was specifically looking for any information about loss of battery power. The only thing I found was a warning to not have the key in the "on" position while disconnecting or reconnecting a battery. I assume this could result in possibly resulting in 6 or 7 above.

6 and 7 are usually the result of a short or bad ground or bad HVAC programmer. 7 specifically has a link to serial data bus E & C.

There are a series of tests to run if you have 6 or 7, but I don't have the manuals with me. If I recall, though, the tests involve checking for shorts and the programmer itself.

Also, there is a air mix actuator recalibration procedure that I will post for you.

the morning the battery went dead, i tried to start the car, and when turning the key to start, there was'nt enough power to turn the engine over. i tried to jump start it with my grand prix. could'nt get enough current through the jumper cables. then i though corrosion on battery terminals. when removing positive cable, the positive cable and positive post came off the battery. the key may have been on. there was corrosion on the positive cable.

But I thought you said you changed the battery? Was it not a new battery?

Anyway, put in that new battery and the new battery cable (the one that was corroded). Then after a couple days, maybe the ATC flashing will go away. Maybe not though, if you really have a heating/cooling issue.

i did put a new battery in

OK, so help me to understand here. You put in a new battery, which caused (or seemed to cause) the ECC problems. Now you have a badly corroded positive terminal that came out of the battery and a corroded positive cable. These two are new issues that occurred since putting in the new battery. You think you left the key on, which killed and corroded the battery and cable.

Please bear with me, as I am trying to understand what is happening and am confused as to the full sequence of events. Is my understanding of events as typed above correct or what did I miss?

1. the morning the battery went dead

2. i tried to start the car, and when turning the key to start, there was'nt enough power to turn the engine over.

3. i tried to jump start it with my grand prix. could'nt get enough current through the jumper cables.

4. then i though corrosion on battery terminals.

5. when removing positive cable, the positive cable and positive post came off the battery. (the ignition may have been in the on position when the positive post seperated from the battery)

6. there was corrosion on the positive cable.

7. Replaced battery and cleaned battery cable ends.

8. ecc has been flashing ever since

sorry for the confusion