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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-11-2005, 01:24 PM   #21
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after looking at your 'engine #2' pic, Bill.. and zooming in at 400%, you have about the same clearance as I, except your transmission dipstick is moved out of the way [mine is right there], but you have the alt [i'm sure removed at this point], and some fluid container[??] right there. How many inches of clearance are we talking here? And what exactly is in the way?

As far as the universal joint idea goes, it varies, doesn't it? At full articulation, the universal joint can have little resistance, but then once it gets in two areas [across from each other] it gives a lot of resistance and must bend back a little to continue movement. Maybe if the articulation you need isn't too extreme, you can do it with little compensation?

I know it may be against you, but maybe avoid torquing them? But not just tightening them? Can you get the torque wrench on ANY of the manifold bolts? Doesn't matter front or rear, as long as you can get an accurate torque reading. Now, get all the manifold bolts ON, and to the point where they are holding the manifold tight [for accurate reading]. Then, as you torque the bolt down, count how many degrees the bolt turned from hand tight to proper torque. Then do that for all bolts. That will probably be better than torquing all bolts. It will keep everything equal all around. If you can't get a torque wrench to any of the bolts, I wouldn't mind doing the above procedure on my engine, and sharing the degrees with you.


-justin
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Old 07-11-2005, 01:38 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opensourceguy

I know it may be against you, but maybe avoid torquing them? But not just tightening them? Can you get the torque wrench on ANY of the manifold bolts? Doesn't matter front or rear, as long as you can get an accurate torque reading. Now, get all the manifold bolts ON, and to the point where they are holding the manifold tight [for accurate reading]. Then, as you torque the bolt down, count how many degrees the bolt turned from hand tight to proper torque. Then do that for all bolts. That will probably be better than torquing all bolts. It will keep everything equal all around. If you can't get a torque wrench to any of the bolts, I wouldn't mind doing the above procedure on my engine, and sharing the degrees with you.


-justin
agreed, this could work but you need to remember that squish and stretch play a factor,
I would try it if need be.
Not to sound dumb for lack of expirence on Pontiac motors, but is there a washer involved, if yes what kind?
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Old 07-11-2005, 01:40 PM   #23
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No washer. Studs. Hex in the middle, different threads on each end.
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Old 07-11-2005, 04:01 PM   #24
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Quote:
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I'm trying to be anal about this, as I'm using gaskets on the re-install. Anyone got a clue?
Bill, come in out of the sun for a while :P .

Don't bother with the torque wrench, if you want to practice on another bolt and check with the torque wrench to compare tightness. Otherwise, use something like a 1/4" drive ratchet where you know it'* unlikely you'll over torque.

I use gaskets on mine and just used a 6" wrench to tighten...no leaks.

Don't do like I did this weekend though...I did the front passenger wheel bearing and broke a 3/8 to 1/2 adaptor getting it off and broke the TorX 55 on the last on the way in. Still, only took 1/2 an hour.

Cheers,
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Old 07-11-2005, 04:15 PM   #25
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nick: do you mean the headers getting closer to the head? Or bolt stretch?


-justin
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Old 07-11-2005, 06:24 PM   #26
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I just checked out a 3/8" drive swivel-head torque wrench from work. Swivels in only one axis, rather than 2 like a universal. That'll solve the problem.
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Old 07-11-2005, 06:25 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
I just checked out a 3/8" drive swivel-head torque wrench from work. Swivels in only one axis, rather than 2 like a universal. That'll solve the problem.
Awsome.... That'll get it done right quick...

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Old 07-11-2005, 07:15 PM   #28
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Always nice to have loaner tools available. Take a pic of that will ya...
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Old 07-11-2005, 09:12 PM   #29
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Yup. I'll have pics up tonight. I'll be working on it within the hour.
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Old 07-11-2005, 11:03 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opensourceguy
nick: do you mean the headers getting closer to the head? Or bolt stretch?


-justin
Sorry I have been gone all day and I just got home.....

If you are asking about squish or stretch....
Squish is the compression between the head, exhaust manifold gasket and exhaust manifold, it can very a small amount, which can give you a different reading if you are using a degree method. I still think it is a good choice to do if you have no other alternative choices.

Stretch is bolt thread stretch, lets say that you remove a head and it is time to install the head back on the motor, you have 2 choices, used bolts or buy new ones. Buy the new ones, reason is the used bolts have been stretched because they have been in the motor and torqued and heated and cooled so many times that stress fatigue has set in. If you try to install the used bolts back into the motor, they will go back in, they will torque back to what you think the wrench setting says, but I guarantee it isn't the correct amount and all the bolts are different. If things go wrong on the install the head of the bolt could shear off because the major stress point on that bolt is the seating surface or called as the bottom of the head.
I hope I answered your question.....
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