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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-11-2005, 02:44 AM   #1
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How the H E L L do you get a torque wrench on the exhaust manifold studs? Both my torque wrenches are too big. You have to use a deep-well socket to clear the threads on the stud, which pushes it too close to the firewall. So I got 2 smaller torque wrenches from work, and can't get either in there to where I can use them.

What the hell is the trick? I'm trying to be anal about this, as I'm using gaskets on the re-install. This sux.

Anyone got a clue?
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Old 07-11-2005, 02:47 AM   #2
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I'd say universial joint socket, but you'll prolly get a false torque reading from the wrench.

Do they have swivel head torque wrenches?
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Old 07-11-2005, 02:52 AM   #3
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You're right about the universal/swivel. It'll screw with the torque value.

What I need is a torque wrench with a shorter handle that will go up to 38 ft/lbs.
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Old 07-11-2005, 02:54 AM   #4
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Maybe Pontiac compensated for that? right....


I've never seen one short enough to get in there....38 ft lbs isn't that tight....I think that one you could do by hand and get it just right?

Granted of course you're being anal about it...Understandable.
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Old 07-11-2005, 03:05 AM   #5
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I welded on my manifolds around the outside of the flange to the pipes so I could port them. Torque is critical in case they warped slightly due to the heat from welding. Particularly so now that I'm using gaskets.
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Old 07-11-2005, 07:26 AM   #6
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There'* a problem You can't get in there without a universal and the universal will throw you off. But how much? Or how about..and this will also only get you close. You torque a bolt to 38lbs, then remove with the universal and torque wrench to see the difference in value and use that value.

I would have said calculate it, but I'm no engineer. Most days I've got the old farmer solution to a problem like this.
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Old 07-11-2005, 08:36 AM   #7
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That'* actually not a have bad idea. But still not entirely accurate.
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Old 07-11-2005, 08:47 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakevilleSSEi
That'* actually not a have bad idea. But still not entirely accurate.
Correct, when accuracy counts and is fighting you...what else can you do. There are a million extra variables that will come into play if he uses says a universal joint versus a wobble socket. The universal will change torque slighty with each degree of bend at each joint.

In the situation he has it is the best I could come up with. Most would tighten by hand and hope it was good enough.
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Old 07-11-2005, 08:58 AM   #9
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Well that'* what I'm thinking is gonna be the best way of doing this. Even using extentsions will alter the torque value.
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Old 07-11-2005, 09:02 AM   #10
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drop the engine?



why are you asking this kind of question at 1:44 in the morning? don't you work??

personally, I do the feel. I get myself a bolt, find my torque with the torque wrench, and practice doing it by hand with the regular ratchet. I check myself a couple of times, and once my arm is 'calibrated', I have at it (I only do that, of course, when I can't get my torque wrench where it needs to be). If you're within a few foot pounds of each other, you should be fine.
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