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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-11-2005, 10:16 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBost37
You torque a bolt to 38lbs, then remove with the universal and torque wrench to see the difference in value and use that value.
Almost correct, this is half right, after you torque the correct size bolt to the correct torque minus 10lbs with the torque wrench, remove it with the universal and torque wrench to see the difference in value. Next, you torque the correct size bolt to the correct torque minus 10lbs with the torque wrench with the universal, then adjust the torque wrench with out the universal to minus 10lbs MORE than what you installed with the universal and begin the creep sequence "adjusting by 2 lbs at a time" until you reach the actual force value as the universal bolt was set to, you will then have an accurate measurable difference between both wrench setups.
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Old 07-11-2005, 10:59 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick *
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBost37
You torque a bolt to 38lbs, then remove with the universal and torque wrench to see the difference in value and use that value.
Almost correct, this is half right, after you torque the correct size bolt to the correct torque minus 10lbs with the torque wrench, remove it with the universal and torque wrench to see the difference in value. Next, you torque the correct size bolt to the correct torque minus 10lbs with the torque wrench with the universal, then adjust the torque wrench with out the universal to minus 10lbs MORE than what you installed with the universal and begin the creep sequence "adjusting by 2 lbs at a time" until you reach the actual force value as the universal bolt was set to, you will then have an accurate measurable difference between both wrench setups.
Nick is the 10 pound creep to get an accuarte formula/visible results?
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Old 07-11-2005, 11:31 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBost37
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick *
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBost37
You torque a bolt to 38lbs, then remove with the universal and torque wrench to see the difference in value and use that value.
Almost correct, this is half right, after you torque the correct size bolt to the correct torque minus 10lbs with the torque wrench, remove it with the universal and torque wrench to see the difference in value. Next, you torque the correct size bolt to the correct torque minus 10lbs with the torque wrench with the universal, then adjust the torque wrench with out the universal to minus 10lbs MORE than what you installed with the universal and begin the creep sequence "adjusting by 2 lbs at a time" until you reach the actual force value as the universal bolt was set to, you will then have an accurate measurable difference between both wrench setups.
Nick is the 10 pound creep to get an accuarte formula/visible results?
yes it does, it allows the user to find the correct pressure for his technique because each person and each torque wrench has a different feel for the same setting. Some guys do not believe in step torqueing, they will set the wrench at the desired setting and wam bam there you have it. This is the wrong way to do it, you need to step the process in 3 steps, lets say you need to achive a final setting of 70 ft lbs, first step would be to torque all the bolts to 50ft lbs then 65 next and last would be 70, this allows each bolt to have the same thread stretch as each other progressively and evenly.

Remember this is my 2 cents and my opinion on this subject, and yes I am an engineer, not the train type, but sometimes I wish I was, I am a Mechanical Design Engineer and I have built a few motors in my life.
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Old 07-11-2005, 11:51 AM   #14
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umm.. i had no problems getting my torque wrench on my manifold bolts.. is the firewall/cooling fans in the way, or something else like the oil dipsticks?


-justin
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Old 07-11-2005, 11:53 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opensourceguy
umm.. i had no problems getting my torque wrench on my manifold bolts.. is the firewall/cooling fans in the way, or something else like the oil dipsticks?


-justin
The firewall is significantly closer to the manifold bolts in a 92-99 than what you see in your pre-92.
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Old 07-11-2005, 12:07 PM   #16
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oh, okay.. nevermind then I thought everything was the same from 87 to 99, but again shows what I know.


-justin
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Old 07-11-2005, 12:13 PM   #17
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oh, okay.. nevermind then I thought everything was the same from 87 to 99, but again shows what I know.


-justin
Not only are there huge changes between the different 88-91/92-95/96-99 eras for interior and motor. But there are millions of little slight differences that can trip up even the most experienced person.

For example, the buttons 92-99 on the console for tc and shifting. They all look pretty much the same if you just look at the front three buttons. But in reality there are at least 2-3 designs that I am aware of. Pigtails vs directly wired, recessed vs non recessed. Most of these have no effect on how they work and act. Parts will fit differently though.

Nick...don't ask how..but I knew you had to be a non-train engineer. Thanks for the info, it is very good.
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Old 07-11-2005, 12:18 PM   #18
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Wren, would you be able to remove the torque axis mount andf be able to place a jack with a board of wood under the tranny( Its broken anyhow ) and slightly jack/rock the engine foward possibly leaving you enough room to torque the bolts accurately?

Just a thought..

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Old 07-11-2005, 12:49 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick *
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBost37
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick *
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBost37
You torque a bolt to 38lbs, then remove with the universal and torque wrench to see the difference in value and use that value.
Almost correct, this is half right, after you torque the correct size bolt to the correct torque minus 10lbs with the torque wrench, remove it with the universal and torque wrench to see the difference in value. Next, you torque the correct size bolt to the correct torque minus 10lbs with the torque wrench with the universal, then adjust the torque wrench with out the universal to minus 10lbs MORE than what you installed with the universal and begin the creep sequence "adjusting by 2 lbs at a time" until you reach the actual force value as the universal bolt was set to, you will then have an accurate measurable difference between both wrench setups.
Nick is the 10 pound creep to get an accuarte formula/visible results?

yes it does, it allows the user to find the correct pressure for his technique because each person and each torque wrench has a different feel for the same setting. Some guys do not believe in step torqueing, they will set the wrench at the desired setting and wam bam there you have it. This is the wrong way to do it, you need to step the process in 3 steps, lets say you need to achive a final setting of 70 ft lbs, first step would be to torque all the bolts to 50ft lbs then 65 next and last would be 70, this allows each bolt to have the same thread stretch as each other progressively and evenly.

Remember this is my 2 cents and my opinion on this subject, and yes I am an engineer, not the train type, but sometimes I wish I was, I am a Mechanical Design Engineer and I have built a few motors in my life.
Absolutely right. Step-torquing is the only way to go. Even on my wheel lugs, I go 50/75/100, after lightly oiling the threads.
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Old 07-11-2005, 01:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Wren, would you be able to remove the torque axis mount andf be able to place a jack with a board of wood under the tranny( Its broken anyhow ) and slightly jack/rock the engine foward possibly leaving you enough room to torque the bolts accurately?

Just a thought..
X2.
You beat me to it.
That was the first thing i thought of.
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