Ok well, I got the parts taken off and as everyone would guess no magnet there just the cup it used to sit inside of. I got the new magnet and removed the brim so I can do the quick and easy cost effective way to repair her. I have a couple of questions however.

(1) how the heck do you really see how to remove the last part that’* being so hard to remove (all but that part has been easy) I even tried to remove the shields under the car in hope I could get a better view then with just the mirror.

(2) I am sure this one has been asked but not sure how to search for it and I am almost for sure there is a few reasons this should be tried but I am going to ask anyhow. Has anyone every tried to fool the sensor yet? Like say getting a thin magnet and bonding it onto the sensor itself so that it thinks all is well? I am sure I will hear why this wont work and that others have tried this right?

Thanks for all the help so far guys, your great!

Donnie H.

Ok got the dang thing in at last!!! How much JB weld is good? I think I used a bit too much as I always tend to worry about using too little of things like that, I think it will be ok however since there seems to be a lot of it left over on my tools that I used to put the magnet in with.

I have seen people saying that they ran there car up to 5000 rpms and it lost the magnet and upon downshifting it lost the magnet, are the Bonneville’* really that touchy that you cant drive them a little sporty at times?

If so I am afraid I might have made a really bad decision on getting the car. I love the car and the style and such, but compared to my other cars the Bonneville is a little smaller HP so I might drive it harder then others would. My current cars are a 03 G35 4 door, 91 300ZxX NA, 94 Maxima Se (I work at the airport so I have lots of cars but have little time to enjoy them however!) I tend to drive the Bonneville about like I drive the Maxima and I don’t think its too ruff or harsh and haven’t had any issue with the Maxima in 25k besides all the typical stuff as goes in most older cars. I do however so love how smooth the Bonneville shifts gears on the highway (its awesome) cant feel it downshift out of OD into Drive only way you know it really did is that the tach jumped up and the car started going more.

Which’* brings me to another question also, I had a friend in Louisiana that had a 89 SE and his car always ran super low rpms on the highway and so forth, what rpms is normal for 50-60mph as I think back and his was like around 1500-2000 he had the car since new and had taken really good care of the car and still has it as far as I know last time we talked a year ago the car was around 280k of course Gm replaced the trans sometime back so its not all real miles on the car but for as little as he has had to do its awesome!


Thanks again for the help, hope Thursday brings good news when I put her back together and crank her up!

Donnie H.

Don't be too hard on the car just yet. Cam magnets will fly off from time to time. Yours was just due. Once it'* stuck back on, you should be good to drive it as aggressively as you like. The 3800 very rarely dies from any internal problem. They are very solid engines. Now the transmission... you might be careful of.

The horsepower on the old vin C 3800 is low at 165. It doesn't like to rev all that much. But you do have 220 ft-lb of torque, and you don't have to rev very much at all to find it. It makes for a good driving car. I know I like mine.

These cars do run very low rpm'* on the highway, depending on the final drive gearing. Being a SSE, you might have more aggressive gearing than my LE, but I'm not sure on that one. If you've still got your build codes on the label in the trunk, I'm sure someone could tell you what you've got.