Sorry i don't have scan data, but i got good shots of my gauges. This was on a ~65 degree day, after a mix of about a half hour of city and highway driving. It'* at idle. Is this close to what your gauges show?

Your idle looks dead on with mine, same with volts. My Oil pressure is usually dead even in the middle at idle, increasing with RPMs and mine is in kilopascals. Although it jumps around like nuts sometimes so it could be screwed up. My operating temp is usually half way too, but mine is in celcius so the scale could be different.

Unrelated question...Why do the Canadian clusters in these cars not have the hashmarks on all the guages? I find that quite annoying, because you have to guess the exact number of everything...

Looks like what my 88 used to run. How about you tell us if your car is running OK? Everything sounds/smells fine?

On a side note, I've had gauges lie, and read high/low because of bad connections. Always go for the scan data if possible

capetan: Only LE gauge clusters have the little hash marks. SE + SSE Clusters do not. Also, the scale is exactly the same. Even though Alec'* is in SAE, and your'* is in Metric, 100*F is the same as 37*

Everything seems alright, except the Oil Pressure.

It'* a little low for my liking. Do you have a high quality [such as Mobil One, K&N or Purolator/Pure One]? A FRAM Filter decreases the PSI decently [5PSI in my case]. Also what weight oil are you using? Does the PSI increase with RPM? What about on a cold start?

Other than that, you are good to go my friend. Just don't beat her around too much. Low Oil Pressure is very bad.


-justin

If your gauges are correct:

Oil pressure is fine, nearly 40 psi at idle is ok warm

Voltage is a little high, closer to straight up is normal (~14.x)

Temp is cold, yours looks close to ~150 and should be ~195 after just a few minutes of driving. Is the thermostat original?

Looks like coolant is about 200F, first quarter is 195 (used to be 180 in the 60s-70s). Mine runs below the first quarter all of the time but I have a 180F thermostat.

Oil pressure guage is notorious for being off. Spec for "C" is 40 psi at 1875 rpm fully warmed up. Most "C" 3800s run about 50 psi there, "L"*, 60.

Voltage looks a bit high but if everything is turned off then probably in ballpark. Only real way to tell is with a mechanical guage for oil pressure and scan tool for all else (Note: scan tool just reports what the sensors tel it. If a sensor is bad, so will be the reading).

hrmmmm.... judging from the tach, i would venture to say that your speedometer is sitting at zero, that is the only problem i see other than that, it looks all good. i have also that somewhat low oil pressure indicates a need for an oil change, but its not bad.

OK let'* make sure i don't miss any questions here... The oil pressure definately does rise when the revs are up, that'* actually a tiny bit lower that usual. Today it was right straight up even. Cold start PSI is much higher, almost top of the gauge. I don't need an oil change, just did one 700 miles ago. The oil is MAG-1, and the filter is a Casite CF-47. I'm running 10-40 oil in it, non-synthetic. The blower was off, and the radio was on at the time. Maybe interior lights too, but that'* always what the gauge says. Yes the speedo was at zero. The car purrs like a kitten for having so many miles, the idle is perfect and it doesn't burn any fluids. No the thermostat isn't original i don't think. The plugs and wires are not very old. Everything is stock on the car.

I thought that just changed with the year, but I could be wrong..?

i think it has to do with whether or not you have the column shifter.