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1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-29-2002, 08:03 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Actyually it looked exactly like yours, It had some faded paint, typical GM clearcoat... The interior was clean like new, there was some cracking of the leather seats... My problem was that they wanted $2500 for a 12 year old car with 178,000 miles on it... So I said forget it.... I dont want it that bad... If they had wanted $1000 or $1500 yeah that might have been ok. I could have always rebuilt the engine.... A little costly to rebuild a 3800 though... Cheaper to go with a junk yard engine with low miles... I didn't want to put that much work into it... The only thing is I love these older SSE'* drove one 6 years ago and still haven't got it out of my system yet......
I see your point on the price w/the miles.
I didn't know those cars came w/leather! Cool!!
why is it expensive to rebuild the 3800'*? I found a 3800 motor w/only 40,000 miles on it in a local yard--complete they wanted like $400-600-if that!! Wish I had the room!
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Old 09-29-2002, 08:28 PM   #22
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Definitely call!! Can't go wrong for the $$.
i love my car--if only I could get all my problems sorted out. Had it up to 110 yesterday--but you could feel it holding back! I'm getting a code for the torque convertor or the switch--either one.
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Old 09-29-2002, 09:32 PM   #23
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It'* been a few months since I read the codes--it'* dark now so I can't:(--at around 70 mph the tach is around 2300-2400--which I know is damn high!! The od isn't kicking in. Think there'* a way to put a switch in to lock it that way?
This car has those electrical demons still! I pulled the ecm and someone wrote on it "For testing Only" --still worried about that!
If I'm on the highway and I'm accelerating I have to let the trans ease into the next gear--which it does--if not it'll go up to around 4500-5000!!
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Old 09-29-2002, 10:14 PM   #24
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Geez--is it hard to change the solenoid? I checked the fluid yesterday and of course it'* brown. I was going to try to change it myself--shouldn't be too bad of a job.
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Old 09-29-2002, 10:19 PM   #25
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All you have to do is ask and you will receive.
It'* a 1990 SSE bought at an auction around here (Ottawa) for $400, but after auction fees and taxes and crap it came to about $900.
It'* fully loaded except for a sunroof :( . It has 177,000kms (109000 miles for you Gord(SSEi95)). Needs some work to get it on the road. Already replaced the 2 tires that needed it. And that I know of it needs a crank sensor, a rear wheel bearing (driver'* side) most likely brakes all around, emerg cables ( kind of a givin) ,the back struts ( self leveling system) and possibly the front. In the minor details department, I need to change the drivers look(it was seized) new power antenna, get the rear window tinted, and replace the wire running to the driver side door speakers. As for performance modes well I want to get it running and then see what I will do.
Would definetly like to drop it about an inch or so, air intake, dual exhaust ( I though the SSEs came with it) and if I had the money would be nice to drop in a nice SC 3800 .
Amazingly enough, under the car there is ONE spot of rust about half a foot to a foot in diamater (surface) on the drivers side. I couldn't beleive it when I looked underneath.

By the way if you read this Gord, the spelling still doesn't count. LOL!
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Old 09-29-2002, 10:24 PM   #26
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Seems like a good price w/all the work you'll need. Wonder what those rear shocks would cost? Once in a junkyard they had maybe a 93 SSEI that had air shocks in it. would that setup work like the stock deal? Just plumb them into the air pump?
Just curious--did your car have that nice little pouch w/all the doodads in it? Mine didn't!:(
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Old 09-29-2002, 10:28 PM   #27
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I already priced out the parts, crank sensor about $50, the wheel bearing about $140, the rear struts with leveling or not ( made by monroe) $78 each, and the brakes would be about $400 or so. ALL PRICES ARE CANADIAN!!! So if the prices look a bit off that would be why!
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Old 09-29-2002, 10:34 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonyrodz
Geez--is it hard to change the solenoid? I checked the fluid yesterday and of course it'* brown. I was going to try to change it myself--shouldn't be too bad of a job.
Not too bad as long as you can get the car far enough off the ground... Once you get the 19, or 20 bolts out of the pan be prepared for a mess... And if the filter has not been changed for a long time, the plastic may be brittle and break off in the trans pump bore... Then you have to remove that pesky metal rubber seal.... Ok.. nevermind my first statement......Its going to be a bicth to get the seal out of the bore... You'll know what I'm talking about when you see it........ And the filter problably will break into several pieces when you start pulling on it.... Urrrr Aahhhh, Get dad to help... Never could get mine to help me....Have fun and good luck with the goblins And this is how you will fell when you get done
I've changed trans filters before--but only on rwd cars. I'm wondering if I'd be better off just paying someone? I know it gets too messy!
I've always wondered why GM never put little drain plugs into the trans pans?!?!
So the solenoid is inside of the trans? Is it a simple 2 bolt-2 wire hookup deal? Is it expensive-the solenoid that is.
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Old 09-29-2002, 10:36 PM   #29
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If your gonna do the filter why not just get it flushed at the same time. A little extra never hurt, besides it could probably use it.
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Old 09-29-2002, 10:39 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonyrodz
It'* been a few months since I read the codes--it'* dark now so I can't:(--at around 70 mph the tach is around 2300-2400--which I know is damn high!! The od isn't kicking in. Think there'* a way to put a switch in to lock it that way?
This car has those electrical demons still! I pulled the ecm and someone wrote on it "For testing Only" --still worried about that!
If I'm on the highway and I'm accelerating I have to let the trans ease into the next gear--which it does--if not it'll go up to around 4500-5000!!
I get 120KM/h @ ~2000RPM on mine. For a while 2 years ago, she wouldn't go into lock. Determined that the thermostat was locked open, thus not allowing the engine to get up to full operating temp. Replaced that, and I had my OD back, as well as heat!
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