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Grounding Block

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Old 11-20-2005, 11:07 AM
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Default Grounding Block

I'm out at my grandmother'* house having my '91 SSE checked out by my uncle. I've been having some goofy electrical problems so he said he'd check it out. The only thing he can't seem to find is the grounding block to which everything electric is grounded. Is there one? If so, where'* it at? To summarize the problem, he started by trying to replace my electric antenna, then found there was something awry with the ground, now all I have is the drivers side dash lights (the lights under the dash by the pedals). Everything else is out, could be just a goofy ground. We're checking everything out to find the problem. Any ideas?
Old 11-20-2005, 02:41 PM
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On the 87-91s there are quite a few grounds, however the main engine one is under the coil pack [it'* where the negative battery cable connects to/ends up], and there are two on the fenders [about centered on them] it'* a nut connected a couple wires. But the latter would be more relevant to the antenna and the lights. Have fun with the electrical, they are loads of fun on these cars
Old 11-21-2005, 06:17 PM
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Well, it definitely wasn't a walk in the park, but the problem'* been fixed. It wasn't a complete fix to the problem, but everything works and I'm happy. After not having any passenger side courtesy/dash lights, my uncle, his friend, and I were all completely baffled. When you'd open my passenger door, no lights on that side at all, but had lights on the driver'* side. When you'd have the drivers door open, the locks wouldn't operate from the inside. Tons of fun so far. Well, one seemingly unrelated problem was the passenger door switch was shot. $3 and a 7/16" socket fixed that. So the final "for the hell of it" trial was to hook up the hot lead of the dash lights passenger side to the positive battery post. VOILA! Lights! Since we figured that out, all we needed to do to bypass the orignal problem was to find a constant source and splice into it. That constant source ended up being that of my stereo deck. Now everything works as it should. The original problem'* still there, we've just pushed it to the back of the bus. Next task(*): (1) Getting the passenger side rear door to open so we can check the door switch on that too, and (2) Getting the power antenna functional once again (which is what I originally went to my uncle for).
Old 11-22-2005, 07:39 AM
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Sounds as though your uncle knows what he'* doing... so you're in good hands.

Those rear doors sure are fun, but I can get mine open in about 5-10 minutes by removing the door panel with the door closed... but getting the latch out to fix is a lost cause at this point. If you can get your'* out, throw me some tips, because I tried for days and never could figure out how to fit the latch through anything.

And the antenna, are you sure that the gears aren't stripped? You'd know if they were... it makes a loud grinding noise that never stops until you unplug it from in the trunk.
Old 11-22-2005, 07:51 AM
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Randman slim jims the lock open then the doors open normally.
Old 11-22-2005, 12:56 PM
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No, my antenna motor is completely corroded out for one. Now that we've figured out the interior lighting situation, the antenna wiring shouldn't be a problem any longer. Now if I could just get some new motors/regulators for my front windows I'd be set.
Old 11-22-2005, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by NiKo
No, my antenna motor is completely corroded out for one. Now that we've figured out the interior lighting situation, the antenna wiring shouldn't be a problem any longer. Now if I could just get some new motors/regulators for my front windows I'd be set.
PM Jimmyfloyd.. he saw a car of your gen this past weekend.
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