It'* to warm up the throttle body. No problems plugging them. It will effect the flow a bit between the heads, but not a big deal. The biggest problem with the UIM passages is the UIM will crack between the EGR and coolant. Now you have coolant pouring right in to the LIM. The engine will start to buck, you pull over and shut off the engine, and your dead. The cylinders fill with coolant and your hydrolocked.

Ahhh ok, that makes sense.

I am going with a Dorman redesigned UIM, it is said to be more rigid, and it comes with a reduced diameter EGR stove pipe, I am not sure if it has the Hi-Grade Steel EGR Tube and EGR Tube Bushing, in the UIM like the one I wanted from ineedparts though.
I was hoping the reduced diameter EGR stove pipe would keep the heat from damaging the new UIM when I get it, and that would keep it from leaking coolant into the LIM, which I did have a little coolant in the upper part of the LIM when I took the UIM off, it was only a little pooled in each corner where the "hidden" bolts are located.
I've tested and my compression is still good, and when the car died it was due to a almost dead, and a leaky fuel injector, so I think I got really lucky, I had just noticed coolant levels going down in my overflow before it died.
If my fuel injectors would not have died I'd have never noticed a oil leak under my car, and I'd have never considered taking the UIM/LIM off, the failed injectors may have saved my car from getting hydralocked.



Do they make a kit to block those coolant ports off?

I tap the holes out and put a 1/4" pipe plug in. Then use red RTV. I've also found that if you pop out the rubber seal between the LIM and UIM for the coolant passage, a nickel fits perfectly. That then seals it right up.

UPDATE: I was wrong all along, it was not my fuel injectors causing my non start issues on occasion.

I have good news to report, I got the car running nicely, and figured out what the problem actually was, and it is funny because you'd think it would be such an insignificant part of one of the sensors, but I found out just how important it is.
What I am saying is it was not my fuel injectors, granted I may have had one or two clogged up a tad, I'm sure it wasn't them.

I present to you what stopped my car from running in the first place, it is in the attachment.


The damn MAF Sensor tip was not staying attached to the MAF, I figured this out because I started it and it ran ok till I snapped the throttle a few times, then it was back to doing exactly what it was before, dying.
Something told me to check the MAF, and so I removed it to find that the little black tip was spinning and blocking of most of the airflow, so I think it was detecting too little air, and so the PCM was killing it I think.
I noticed the two little plastic dots that hold it to the MAF were not really there anymore, so that was letting that tip rotate freely.
I took that tip out all-together, and as soon as I did it ran beautifully.
I'll get a new MAF ASAP, as I am sure that tip helps direct the air over the thermistors properly...


I just have one issue, my dash gauge now shows the cars temps as being as high as the gauge can go , and I mean it is all the way on the other side, not in the middle near 190-210 like it used to be, but the actron scan tool reports the temps correctly, I'd like to figure this out because I'll have no early warning that it is trying to overheat...
I think I may have put a little too much stress on the coolant sensor wires when I was hooking up the PCV lines to the TB, I'll double check them when it cools down.


I did manage to get my car running again, thank you all for your help!
http://skydrive.live.com/?cid=925817...2&sc=documents

I have a little noise coming from my belt tensioner pulley I think, I'll eventually start a new thread for that though.