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Old 02-25-2008, 03:45 PM   #1
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Default Need brake help Please

the rear brakes on my BMW need to be replaced. Dealer wants $725.00 but with me being out of work I cant afford that right now. Is there an easy way to just do the pads not the rotors?
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Old 02-25-2008, 03:49 PM   #2
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ususally when you buy the pads, they come with a diagram showing how to remove and replace them.
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Old 02-25-2008, 03:58 PM   #3
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Well what special tools would I need. Clamps etc. Pics would be great!!
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Old 02-25-2008, 04:03 PM   #4
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I don't know of any other active member who drives a Beamer and has done brakes.

I'd buy a Chiltons manual along with those new pads.
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Old 02-25-2008, 04:05 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by vital49
I don't know of any other active member who drives a Beamer and has done brakes.

I'd buy a Chiltons manual along with those new pads.
But are BMW brakes any different than Bonneville brakes. They are both disc brake cars Idk this really sucks for me.
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Old 02-25-2008, 04:07 PM   #6
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Not sure. Have you tried searching any BMW forums?
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Old 02-25-2008, 04:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vital49
Not sure. Have you tried searching any BMW forums?
Yeah I just did that thanks. I just checked here first.
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Old 02-25-2008, 04:39 PM   #8
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I haven't done that exact model, but most of the BMWs and other European cars I have worked on were very easy to change pads. The rotor doesn't come off, the pads just unclip and slide out the top of the caliper. The retention method varies, some are simple bent sheetmetal clips, some are bolts. You'll just need to get under there and see what it has.
The trick is to get the pistons retracted. I do it the easy way and open the bleeder screws. Usually my biggest screwdriver is enough to pry it back far enough to switch pads.
The high cost for a dealer brake job is because they always want to change the rotors and charge you $50 a bottle for designer brake fluid. If the pads are changed before they start to grind the rotor you can usually get at least 2 sets of pads worn down before the rotor gets too groovy. Most newer rotors aren't designed to be serviced, they are a one use deal. Once they warp or get too groved they need to be replaced.
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Old 02-25-2008, 05:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bastard
The high cost for a dealer brake job is because they always want to change the rotors and charge you $50 a bottle for designer brake fluid. If the pads are changed before they start to grind the rotor you can usually get at least 2 sets of pads worn down before the rotor gets too groovy. Most newer rotors aren't designed to be serviced, they are a one use deal. Once they warp or get too groved they need to be replaced.
yay for engineered obsolescence, its just good business
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Old 02-25-2008, 05:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stwagner
Quote:
Originally Posted by bastard
The high cost for a dealer brake job is because they always want to change the rotors and charge you $50 a bottle for designer brake fluid. If the pads are changed before they start to grind the rotor you can usually get at least 2 sets of pads worn down before the rotor gets too groovy. Most newer rotors aren't designed to be serviced, they are a one use deal. Once they warp or get too groved they need to be replaced.
yay for engineered obsolescence, its just good business
It is what it is.
It has its good points and its bad points.
The good thing is that the rotors are only as good as they need to be which means they are as light weight as possible, and usually less expensive than one designed to be machined down and reused. Light weight = more fuel efficient. Low cost = cheaper to replace.
The bad thing is they are a one shot deal and aren't thick enough to be cut down and trued. Also, some mfgrs. take the concept of "only as good as they need to be to the nth extreme and make them too thin and more prone to warpage.
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