Thanks. Pics would be great, but don't rush out and jack up the car. I probably won't be modding until next summer. Any time it is convenient for you would be great.

Is everything purchased or is anything fabricated? Is it all plug and clamp, or is anything welded?

As far as the exhaust goes, it'* all slip fit connections with clamps. All exhaust components were designed for bolt on installation. I decided not to weld it up because I wanted easy access for tranny and gas tank removal. I did replace all the "C" clamps with stainless steel band clamps from Napa. They fit and seal better and give just a little bit more ground clearance. Some guys go with a custom true dual set up, but you lose alot of ground clearance for everyday driving. I didn't want to worry about scraping over every speed bump I came across.

Here are a few more pics I have:

That is one really nice looking engine bay.

Thanks! I try to keep her clean. I don't drive the TA much. Only when it'* nice out. Getting caught in the rain with drag radials and 3600 stall can get pretty scry at times!

NOS in the back seat??? Mine'* in the trunk. Hmmm, maybe I should move it. A little for the engine....... A little for the driver....... a little more for the driver.

Mine is TPS activated. Is that electro selonoid activated just under the valve?

I'm pretty sure a NOS leak in the passenger compartment would be funny for a short while.....that'* until unconsciousness sets in and then the wreck. But hey, at least you won't feel anything!

My system is also controlled by a TPS Switch which is intergrated into the FJO two stage controller. It activates at WOT at 3500 RPM and deactivates at 6500 RPM.

The thing you see under the valve, is the solenoid for the for the bottle heater. When the bottle reaches a certain pressure (around 900-1000 psi) in turns the bottle heater off. Is function is to maintain optimum bottle pressure. Also, next to the solenoind, is the bottle pressure guage, which isn't there anymore. I have removed and replaced it with a Dynotune electric digital guage that'* mounted on the A-pillar.

See that long silver tube that is connected to the bottle and goes to the floorboard? That'* called a blow-down-tube. And where it mounts to the bottle, there is a valve that contains a "burst disc". In the event of overpressure or chatostrophic failure, the disc would burst, and direct all the nitrous through the tube and outside of the car. Also, automotive grade nitrous contains a odor that would alert anyone of it'* presence. I would have a better chance of my fuel tank rupturing and blowing me up, then having any issues with my nitrous bottle leaking.

That odor is Sulfur Dioxide (SO2) that is added to prevent abuse, not as a warning. Typically it is at 100 ppm infiltration, which is enough to cause gagging, coughing and involuntary clamping of the trachea when exposed. People who have sulfite allergies would have a much different response to the odor, up to and including death.

100ppm is considered to be Immediately Dangerous to Life and Health (IDLH) and the Threshold Weighted Average (TWA) is 2ppm. SO2 is considered toxic.

Most people can detect SO2 at 3/10 of 1ppm, more by taste than by odor and at 3ppm it does have an easy detectable odor to most people. So, when and if you smell it, you are above the TWA and considered to have been exposed.

So for me if I was going to install....NOS belongs in the trunk and IMO I would not do an install in the passenger compartment.

Well, I have been around and used automotive grade nittrous for long enough that it for sure puts off a very distictive odor. You can't miss it. And if your smelling it, then yes...you can have the symtoms that you have posted above. Either way, you would have to seriously inhale alot of it in an enclosed area in order for it to be fatal. I have seen inmproperly installed nitrous systems "blow off" inside passenger compartments and cause nothing more than a putrid smell inside the car for a couple of day'*. That'* why it'* important to install a blow down tube. Most tracks that follow NHRA rules require it anyway. They usually cost around $20-$50, so it'* cheap insurance.

Where my bottle is mounted is absolutely safe and is not a danger to anyone in the passenger compartment of the vehicle. Anyway, the of a 4th gen Firebird/Trans Am is a hatch area, and not a trunk. So, there is no way to keep the bottle out of the passenger compartment. If I did choose to mount my bottle in the rear area, I would lose the ability to use my t-top racks. Other guy'* have mounted them in the spare tire compartment area under the rear hatch trim panel, but then you have no spare tire. The way my bottle is mounted is been a longtime acceptable practice within the F-body community for several years now. There are very rare cases where a bottle has exploded, but this was traced back to user error, improper wiring of the heater and abusing the bottle (heating it with a propane torch, dropping it, etc.). Basically...if you don't know what your doing with nitrous then you shouldn't be using it. There so many misconceptions and myths about nitrous out there that are totally untrue.