I have a 97 Buick Regal GS, which won't start.
When you turn the ignition, nothing happens. It doesn't roll over. The security light is on, and stays on, even when left for several minutes.
Occasionally the key stays stuck in the ignition, as well. That'* likely unrelated, but just mentioning it.
From further research, I've found out this is a common problem involving the resistor on the key, providing the correct amount of resistance.
I'd rather avoid having to take it towed to a shop, and I'd also prefer to avoid having to solder in any resistors.
I have another 97 Buick Regal GS here that I use for parts.

So here'* my question.
Would replacing the ignition with the one from the spare car work? or is the resistance something that'* registered in the computer or something?

Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.

Far easier to bypass the VATs, https://www.gmforum.com/electrical-133/bypass-vats-92-99-a-279119/

However, because your car wont crank I don't believe it'* the VATs. I would start by checking the battery cables. then check for voltage at the starter.

already removed the started, and tested it, it works fine. replaced the battery, everything comes on. so I don't think it'* the cables. everything I've read so far related to the VATS seems to indicate its whats going on.
Although it may be easier, my question still remains - would it work?

IF the VATs is the problem then the bypass will work. As long as you have the same resistance.

Again, my question has failed to be answered.
The question was, will replacing the ignition work? will it correct the problem? with the ignition and key from the other car in this one?

IF it is the same resistance. the key is simply a switch, it'* not the VATs module.

alright. so you don't think it'* VATS. What else might the problem be?
I took the starter off completely and tried it on the other car, it works fine. The battery connectors work fine.
What happens is the security light stays on. After 10 minutes, the security light stays on, but the car makes a "ding" sound, like when you first insert the key into the ignition.
It only dings once, and the security light remains on.
I was going to try a VATS bypass, but I don't even want to start on that unless I've tried every alternative.
I tried a relearn, but my battery nearly died by the end of it. I will charge it tonight, and try in the morning. But the issue remains that the security light doesn't turn off as stated in every tutorial I've read so far.
If it turns out to be faulty VATS, I read the ohm resistance of my chip, and it gives me 1.45, which doesnt match up with any of the resistances Ive seen so far.

What happens when you try to start the car is a knocking sound which sounds like its coming from inside the passenger side of the dash.

If the resistance on the key don't match the list, then that seems to be the problem. I say do the bypass. You may need to try different setups to get the correct one.

The clicking sounds like a relay. Those are on the passenger side under the dash on the outside wall.

I have two keys, neither of which do anything different. Do you think the bypass will actually help, where both give the same resistance? is there anything else I should try before the bypass?
I live very far outside the nearest city, and its inconvenient to go shopping for resistors, without knowing whether or not they will actually work..

If both keys are the same then it'* likely not the problem. I woudl check on that relay you heard clicking.