actually tried jumping the starter from the battery with the key on, didnt work. also tried starting in neutral and drive, neither worked.
right now, I'm having a fun time finding a combination of resistors to add up to the right resistance to match my key pellet.
unfortunately these variety packs from the source suck.

aha! 1.46! that should be in range of both 1.45 AND 1.47

It'll accept a 5-10% leaway to work within.

You cranked but didn't start at all. Hmmmm either by then your cylinders were flooded or something else is going on here. Check the ICM connector and make sure it'* not loose. I've seen a loose one do similar.

Ignition switch is also possible. Each time you turn it on, you should hear the pump run/prime the cylinders. Check for spark as well. Just pull any wire off one coil tower and cra...uh.. have someone crank from the soleniod..lol Look for arching.

I'm starting to lean toward something bigger than Vats

alright, so I've run into a problem. the only orange wire that I found, and cut, was a very thick wire which didn't have two wires inside. I'm now going to have to figure out a way to reconnect that wire to itself.
There is a black one running down the column, with two white wires inside, is this the one I want?
It goes straight to the ignition, so I assume these are the wires that read the pellet.

okay, so I connected the resistors to the white wires leading to the ignition, which I'm pretty sure are the ones for the pellet reading leads.
the first time during the relearn process, the security light turned off after 10 minutes. but after that, it went back to doing the "ding" after 10 minutes, and the security light remains on.
So I think we've established it wasnt VATS. although it didn't hurt to try.
Tomorrow I will try replacing the relays and fuses with the ones from the other car.
Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I've tried boosting the starter directly off the battery before, but I'll try again tomorrow, for the sake of arguement.

I'd suggest against replacing relays and fuses for the heck of it. There'* no reason to support it.

Try the items I asked you about and we'll get you back up and running soon.

did you mean to jump the power wire from the battery at the alt? or to jump the starter itself from the power wire on the alt?
because what I did was connected my cable to the battery directly, and tried boosting the starter itself. didn't crank, although it was tough getting it in there quite right, as the starter is in a terrible location. but that'* what I was planning on trying again today.
I took the starter off completely though, and was able to make sure it runs. it works fine, so I must not have gotten a decent connection.

Just to recap here, I'll go through everything the car is doing.
When the key is turned on, the check engine, and security light remain lit. After 10 minutes, they do not go out, but there is a "ding"
when you try to start the car, there is a clicking sound from the passenger side seemingly inside the dash, this sound is barely audible from outside the car, with the hood open.
I've tried starting it in every gear, it does the same thing for each.
Did the VATS bypass, which changed nothing. So the problem is either something else, or my VATS module itself is faulty. I have no idea where the module itself would be, or how I'd go about replacing or removing it.

Ok, as long as we are recapping.

You have a 97 and the relearn procedure is for 98+ cars. Sorry to say, the 10 minute thing is doing nothing but draining your battery and wasting your time.

Please pull one plug wire off a coil, then with key in on position, jump the soleniod from the positive wire at the starter. This should crank the starter. Look for spark at the coil. Do you have spark?

When you turn the key from off to on/start do you hear the fuel pump prime?

Do you have fuel at the fuel rail?

Check the grounds at the lower stud/bolt of the trans. Are all the grounds clean, connected and snug? You should have the battery ground cable and two black wires connected there.

yes, I do hear it when I turn the key.
when I try to crank the starter, it clicks, but it doesn't crank or turn over.
when the starter is off the car, it works fine.

Have you tested the battery to starter and battery to block cables? Have you tested voltage at the starter when the key is turned to start?