why would the security light be on, and staying on even after 10 minutes, if its anything else?
where would I even begin with relays?

I think there is a diagram for the relays.

relays.. are we talking fuses? the fuse panel is on the passenger side under the dash on the outside wall. just trying to get a clear understanding of what we're talking about here. I might mention I'm somewhat new to car repairs, my father has a few more years under his belt than I do, but he has no idea about buicks, and doesn't have the time to look into it. I can't really afford to take it to a pro right now either, as I'd have to get it towed, and as mentioned before, I live way out of the city.

also, I found a 1.5 resistor. would this fall in range of the 1.45 that I measured from my key pellet?

As far as I know, the resistance needs to be the same. Just odd that both keys are different.

so what you're saying is that I should try to add up to 1.470, as listed here:
https://www.gmforum.com/electrical-133/bypass-vats-92-99-a-279119/
?

or should I add up to the 1.45 that I measured on both key pellets?

And if I do add up to 1.45, would 1.5 fall within the 2% tolerance?

as for the relays, where are they located? are the behind the fuse panel? or were you talking about the fuse panel itself? if so, I already have tested each fuse. all of which are fine.

2% would fall between 1.421 and 1.479 So 1.5 is outside tolerance.

There should be some relays on the firewall under the hood.

I found one that comes to 1.48, so that would still be out of range? damn. so close :P
I'll try replacing the fuses and relays with those from the car that does start. maybe that will help? who knows.

Do me a favor. Being a Regal, I never tried the vats faulting on purpose in any of my 97'* or 98'*. Try this.. move the gear shifter around and try to start in each gear along with neutral and park. Reason for this is the soleniod power goes through the range selector switch located on the top of the transmission. If it'* not happy, you'll get no relay of power to the solenoid.

You could also have someone check the soleniod wire at the alternator for power when you turn the key. More than likely you aren't getting the crank signal. W bodies are well known for ignition switch issues. It'* possible that it went bad, as a lot of the car'* power goes directly through the switch (bad design).

Another way to test if the vats is the cause is to crank it by jumping the solenoid from the power wire at the alt. If the car starts and runs wtih the key in the on position, then likely it'* not vats because vats would prime the cylinders and not toggle the fuel injectors after the prime.

Tough part here is you can't necessarily rely on the what a Bonneville does in that year to know if the Regal isn't starting due to vats. Bonnevilles weren't redesigned until 2000, while the W body was redesigned in 97.

Good thought on the gear selector.