I have a 1998 Buick Park Avenue. It has had a power drain when the car is off for some time now. I had it isolated to the power line that goes across the "Battery 2" Fuse. On a mechanic'* recommendation, I disconnected the front power seats. That seemed to get rid of most of the drain.

1) Now, however, everything quit working on the Battery 2 line. I assumed the fuse had blown, but it'* still good. So I put a meter on the line in place of the fuse. No power is crossing it at all. Any ideas?

2) That line isn't such a bit loss anyway, except for the trunk. I really need the truck, but the power trunk button is on that line. I would just open it with the key, but my key has never gone in the trunk lock since I bought the car. It'* the right key, and fits in other Park Avenue trunks, but won't even slide into mine! I suspected a broken off key, but I can put a small nail in the entire length of the key. What could this be? Frozen tumblers?

3) Any other ways to get the trunk open? I couldn't find an emergency release anywhere (where it would open from the inside). If I knew how much power to put on it, and what wires to put it on, I'd jumpstart it like that. Any help?

4) Ok, now the easy one (I hope). How do I clear the warnings in the car? I just changed the oil and aired the tires, but it'* still telling me to check my tire pressure and change my oil!

Thanks!

I did a write up on this problem a while back. Give this a shot. https://www.gmforum.com/trouble-shooting-test-procedures-141/amp-draw-test-293647/

You just need to keep at it. A bad relay is likely the problem.

Thanks for the link, but I already did all that. That'* how I got it isolated in the first place.
Now, it'* like the entire line is dead (the line from the Battery 2 fuse). It acts like the main fuse is blown, but it'* not. Is there another main fuse on that line somewhere? (this is the line that goes back to the fusebox under the rear seat.) Did the power cables disconnect somewhere?

#2 and #4 solved!

on #4, dumb me -- the answer to that one was in the owner'* manual! Got the warnings cleared.

on #2, it was frozen tumblers. I used a lot of PB Blaster and some encouragement, and the trunk key lock is working again.


So ... back to this electrical line that isn't working at all.
Any suggestions how to isolate where the line may be broken? I can't watch for a power draw or dip, because there'* now power crossing the line at all. It'* line a line broke or a ground came off or something. Any ideas?

Have you tried testing the lines for continuity? Start at one end and put the other probe where ever you can. Is it possible you have a fusible link?

Thanks for your reply.
It is possible that there'* another fuse somewhere. I really don't know much about the electric system of the Park Avenue. I'm not sure what points to test.
I know it'* the Battery 2 line that has a problem. And I know a bunch of that runs to the fusebox under the back seat. I'm not sure what other wires to test for continuity. Any suggestions?

I could try seeing if there is continuity between the Battery 2 MaxiFuse slot, and the fusebox slots under the back seat. Would that work?

Yes, that would work. Or you can just check if you have voltage at the feel line