Rear defogger causes static in radio.
#11
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Muncie, Indiana
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That is weird. My 99 SE just stopped running a few nights ago when the heater was turned on. Can't get the car to start for nothing. But my rear defog and radio won't turn off even with key out of the ignition. But I have no power to windows locks or wipers. Let me know if you figure it out. Sounds similar to what my car was doing.
#12
Senior Member
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Thread Starter
i noticed that the 4th grid in the drivers side did not defog its line across,when i checked it with ohms meter there was no break in that grid,could that do it?
#15
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Thread Starter
ok i did test light and i get 14 volts on drivers side and voltage dropps off going to the pass side and nothing on the end.have 1 grid not working but i dont see where the break is...they all measure the same.
#16
Senior Member
True Car Nut
If you are getting 14v when testing from wide/parallel side bus bar, then you should be able to move one lead of the multimeter towards the center of the parallel line, you should see the voltage drop by about half, so around 7v.
If you drag one to the center, or close to it, and see it shoot back to 14v, then the break is in-between your two multimeter leads.
Have you tried leaving the grid powered off, and using your multimeter set to ohms to try to chase the grids to see any big resistance changes?
I've never tested mine, but I'd be willing to test how the ohms change on my grid which all works fine.
If you drag one to the center, or close to it, and see it shoot back to 14v, then the break is in-between your two multimeter leads.
Have you tried leaving the grid powered off, and using your multimeter set to ohms to try to chase the grids to see any big resistance changes?
I've never tested mine, but I'd be willing to test how the ohms change on my grid which all works fine.
#17
Senior Member
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Thread Starter
no it seems like it just gets lower,if i do the grid that is bad from the drivers side i move the volt meter closer to the center it drops to 10 volts,but if i do the one above it that works the voltage is the same and the one above that..there it a certain point where the voltage it 10 and 1/4 inch over its 14.
#18
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Thread Starter
If you are getting 14v when testing from wide/parallel side bus bar, then you should be able to move one lead of the multimeter towards the center of the parallel line, you should see the voltage drop by about half, so around 7v.
If you drag one to the center, or close to it, and see it shoot back to 14v, then the break is in-between your two multimeter leads.
Have you tried leaving the grid powered off, and using your multimeter set to ohms to try to chase the grids to see any big resistance changes?
I've never tested mine, but I'd be willing to test how the ohms change on my grid which all works fine.
If you drag one to the center, or close to it, and see it shoot back to 14v, then the break is in-between your two multimeter leads.
Have you tried leaving the grid powered off, and using your multimeter set to ohms to try to chase the grids to see any big resistance changes?
I've never tested mine, but I'd be willing to test how the ohms change on my grid which all works fine.
#19
Senior Member
Posts like a Supercharger