I'll come back to the vacuum line this weekend. Had a little time to tackle easy stuff. The A/C system needed to be recharged, so I filled the system up to just under 45 psi and it'* held pressure so far. The compressor clutches, but it'* not very cold. Any thoughts on that?

[yt]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toruxgtSbGM[/yt]
(About 75°, normal humidity.)

The MAF sensor is a little melted on top, so out it came, but this one is different from the Bonneville'* (the '97 has a AFH50M-04, this '99 has an AFH50M-05). Does anyone know if the two sensors are interchangeable without a tune?

The IAC was covered in gunk. That got swapped and cleaned, and now it'* so much easier to start!

Tried to install an Intense FWI, but I can't get the last piece of airbox out. Can that strut tower bar be removed?

i would guess they do that when they have air in it, you check for leaks then vacuum it? those bars you have to remove sometimes depending on what you are doing

Update: after two days, the A/C system was totally empty again. Another car with a leak. I can't hear an obvious leak, so I guess I'll add a dye kit to the list.

The A/C system doesn't have anything to do with defogging, does it? I remember the Bonneville (it had A/C last winter) defogged the windshield almost instantly compared to this.

Yes, when you turn your HVAC to the windshield defrost mode, it does use the A/C system. Trivia question time...does anyone know why the A/C is used in defrost mode?

to dry the air, i wish they would give you the choice though, i would rather not have it on if that works for fuel economy, then turn it on only if i have to

The reason why the A/C comes on when the selector is switched to defrost is because of moisture on the inside of the windshield. Especially on rainy days. The cool dry air is what removes it.

Yea, I'm not fond of it coming on myself. One could disassemble the HU and remove that part and install a switch, but its more of a hassle than anything else. Another winter time option is to disconnect the connector at the compressor. Plug it in once a month to run it for a few minutes to keep the pump lubed up.

I guessed correctly. Well, looks like I'm tracking down a leak now rather than next year.

Next question, hopefully easy: are the middle brake light bulbs accessible from inside the trunk?

Well, I cut off the melted sections of vacuum line and sheath, then because I bought the wrong size joiner (way too large), I just electrical-taped the connections together. Seemed to hold and I didn't feel any air leaks, but the blower direction still isn't changing. Guess I'll have to trace that line and figure out where it goes.

Replacing the blower motor resistor, however, did give me back all of my fan speeds. It'* a start.

i seriously doubt electric tape would be air tight for long if at all. never did anything with the light.

I don't think so, either. This is just until I can get to Advance for a much smaller fitting.