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Old 07-20-2012, 06:00 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by sexSSEi View Post
I unplugged it to see if it did any change but it didn't. I'll take it off and replace it w another one I have and see if it helps. I also ordered a new key and am going to program that just cause I heard one guy say that his key was the reason it was stalling. If not the maf, what'* the next spot to check. Is there any way the jumper method to check the resistor may not prove that the resistor is actually bad?
I did the resistor bypass method for my 96' so I'd not have to pay so much more for the keys, it makes me lose that part of the security system, but where I live I am not worried about a break-in.
The other reason I bypassed the ignition cylinder side of it, is that I heard these systems tend to fail after 7-10 years, I did not ever want to end up stranded anywhere.
And if I ever did want to restore that part of the security system I am pretty sure I can easily do so.
I can still also pull the resistor if I am ever somewhere that I am worried about it getting stolen...

I don't think a change in the resistance of the resistor while running could cause the car to shut off after started, it should still remain on till you shut it off, then if you tried to restart it would not start again.

If your security light comes on when in the ON position, then shuts off after a few seconds, I really do not think it is your key, or security system.
The system was supposed to not be able to shut off after started to avoid getting people stranded, I think it was called a limp home feature of VATS...
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:25 PM   #12
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I keep vearing away from it being a security issue for that reason, the security light shows no signs of being bad or out of whack. I still have to check my maf when I get home from work. And I'll update any changes or lack there of.
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:34 PM   #13
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Changed maf, iac, and tps nothing changed. Put fuel gauge on went to 50 psi when primed then to 40 when started then slowly dropped till it stalled. Put jumper wire in relay for fuel pump went to 50 and stayed there and car would still stall.
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Old 07-21-2012, 10:06 PM   #14
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Used jumper wire to get pump to go to 50psi then when started something took over and still killed the psi. After it stalled the psi went back to 50
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Old 07-22-2012, 07:26 AM   #15
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Fuel pressure regulator. From the sounds of your last 2 posts, it seems the engine vacuum is causing the regulator to either A. return 99% of the fuel back to the tank , or B, its sucking the fuel from the regulator right into the engine via the little vacuum line.
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:49 PM   #16
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So, fuel regulator? And to change that I just put a new one on, or does it involve anything else?
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:56 PM   #17
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To check to see if its the issue, read this...

https://www.gmforum.com/trouble-shoo...r-test-284305/
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:26 PM   #18
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If I don't see or smell gas, whats your next thoughts? The thing thats bugging me is when i do the jumper wire for the pump resistor it still stalls and the pressure drops even though the pump is pumping. when it stalls it still kills the pump then it pressures back up after it stalls
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:38 AM   #19
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If the fuel pressure dropping is causing the engine to stall, then we need to start looking at why. Are you able to do an amp draw test on the fuel pump wiring? Do you have enough wire to run directly from the battery to the pump harness and run the pump directly off the battery? I would like to isolate the pump from the main electrical system.
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:33 PM   #20
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I'm not real good with wiring and electrical so bear with me with ohms and amps and what not, but I can wire the pump to the battery. Is that any different than jumping the relay to start the pump?
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