This is the best picture I could take of where the lateral link pass rear.

This is taking from the back of the car looking underneath at the inside if the pass rear tire. And the bar that comes off from the back of the brake, it the bar that is broke. From what I could see is that the break is up toward where it bolts to the inderneith of the bottom of the car floor..
From what I seen online is the part that is broke, is called the pass rear Lateral Link Arm that goes across the front part of the back tire.

I was wondering with the amount of rust where it connects to on the bottom of the floor under the car if it'* even worth paying to get it fixed. I'm wondering if I'm going to have to have somebody weld a new piece of metal from what the picture looks like. I'm going to have to take it in to a garage where they can put it on a lift to see it better because we had a snow storm last night when I took the pictures and I could just get the pictures from crawling underneath the car as much as I could. But today when I grab the wheel and move it it will go forward and backward pretty easy and I'm sort of concerned about driving it too much more in case something happens where it comes off for something else breaks.

so I'm just wondering if any of you guys had one of these happen to an older car where you are able to get it fixed without having to worry about the rest because if I can I believe I'm going to try to sell it and then get another car because this one is a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix the 3800 series 2 and it has about a hundred and eighty-five thousand miles on it it. It'* just the bad thing is that I just paid to have the same Tire have their wheel bearing hub replaced last month and the month before that I had all new brake lines and a complete brake replacement on both back rear tires..

Your vehicle looks like a northeast vehicle that never got an undercoating treatment.....salt up here, produces the problems, underneath the vehicle, you have....

Like rotted brake lines, fuel lines, trailing arms, broken stabilizer bars, engine cradle problems, other suspension components, etc....

When we had cars come in like this, rather than repair them, we turned the customer over to the sales dept., because more than likely the customer was wasting money, on a vehicle that needed too many repairs......

The trailing arm is attached to a replaceable support, on the body....you should replace that connecting support also....if that side rotted, the other side can't be far behind....

On a vehicle like this, it'* just one thing after another that is rotting out....another area I have thought of, is the body where the rear struts and the front struts attach at the top, to the body....the body rusts out....

Your right, I'm in northern Indiana. And the car has been here all it'* life.
I think it'* going to be the best route to go, with trading it in. Or it might be worth taking the new back blacks off I just had all new put on. Rotors, callipers, pads, and wheel bearing hub is the last expense I put into the car 2 months ago.

I agree, its time to put her down. Not worth the trouble.

That'* what it looks like. I wonder if it'* worth scrapping the different stuff from the car

It'* 16 years old, probably not much of a market for even the most usable parts on it. The engine is so common, they are a dime a dozen in most junkyards. Most junkyards will pay top dollar IF you drive it to the yard. Some places will have it towed for you and deduct it from the sale of the vehicle.

Don't get me wrong.....if all you need is a trailing arm to make it driveable, get one, and see what you can get for it in a trade in......I just wouldn't even think of keeping the car....

I just picked it up from getting the Trailing Arm replaced. I just stopped off taking it for a test drive. They only charged $100.00 to do it. It does pull to the left if I take my hands off the steering wheel. Could that be caused from just having the one rear pass arm replaced, instead of both? When I took into the shop yesterday and they had it on the lift to show me, I asked if it looked like the driver side bar looks to need replaced as well, and he said he wouldn't worry bout it since it'* not broke.

It still drives well besides the two problems I've noticed.
1. Being the sound of water swishing when I start driving after the car sat a while and then the noise goes away. It usually only happens for the first minute after I get in after it sat over night and when I put it in drive for no more then a min. I am wondering if air got into the coolant system where I need to bleed the air out. Or if I need to flush the heater core from when I used this copper colored stuff I bought at Wal-Mart that you pour in the radiator to stop leaks. For the last week or so when I get in my car I notice the windshield has a film on it on the inside and the rear view mirror is always foggy. But there isn't any fluid on the front passenger side floor from the heater core, nor any leaks under the car.
I'm going to Windex the Windows today and I bought this stuff in a container that absorbs moisture that I might put in the car to see if it will show any moisture that drops to the bottom of the container of this stuff.
2. The other thing is the oil that shows up under the lip on any flat surface from the gasketsthat needs replaced.
I was thinking about buying a can of that engine cleaner to spray on it, but I never used it before. And I'm not sure if it'* something I can use and spray it off out in the country at a friends if I did it in the grass, if it could make his dog sick if he gets around that area.

And about scrapping it.. I had a old'* cut less supreme where I was going down the road and the transmission started making a loud noise and then my drive and reverse gear didn't work. So I didn't want to spend the money to have a new one installed, so I had to tow company come and get it and they gave me $60.00 for it, which that was the highest he would go. But then my brother told me yesterday one of his kid'* car'* was leaking oil real bad and he already put a good amount of money in it for it being the kids first car. So he called the same hunk yard as I did and they came out and got it and gave him $200.00 for it..

I could clean the inside of my be up and put the bottom outside door panels back on, and try selling it. I haven't never had to sell a car before and I have no idea how much would be a good asking price for it since I'm sure people will try talking me down. And if it'* better to post it on one of the Facebook pages for this area or on craigslist which then I may have to drop the price lower if it'* someone out of town that wants to buy it..

Any advise will be helpful and appreciated.

. Thanks, Rob

Also, here are a few pics of the new bar and the amount of rust around it..