Believe blower motor control module is shot, want to replace with resistor coil.
#1
Believe blower motor control module is shot, want to replace with resistor coil.
1998 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi V6 3.8
Car has automatic A/C controls. A/C does not work. No fuses are blown. Blower motor runs when jumped to power source. I figure it'* the blower motor control module (picture below). Part is kind of expensive and wondered if it were possible to change it to the coil resistor kind (picture below). I believe the control module it has now has a temperature sensor that the automatic climate control unit uses to turn the fan/A/C/Heater on and off. If I were to replace the module that has the temperature sensor on it with one of the coil resistors, would it still work or does the automatic A/C control unit need the temperature sensor to work? I believe that the climate controls work with the temperature sensor and lowers or raises the temperature based on what is set. With that thought in mind, without the sensor, setting the temp lower or higher wouldn't activate the A/C or heater, right? Or would this work?
Has this style of control module.
https://www.rockauto.com/info/315/15...mary__ra_p.jpg
Has this style of automatic climate controls.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/DbMAA...5t/*-l1600.jpg
Wanted to know if I could replace the control module with one of these kinds?
https://contentinfo.autozone.com/zne...A1619/image/4/
Car has automatic A/C controls. A/C does not work. No fuses are blown. Blower motor runs when jumped to power source. I figure it'* the blower motor control module (picture below). Part is kind of expensive and wondered if it were possible to change it to the coil resistor kind (picture below). I believe the control module it has now has a temperature sensor that the automatic climate control unit uses to turn the fan/A/C/Heater on and off. If I were to replace the module that has the temperature sensor on it with one of the coil resistors, would it still work or does the automatic A/C control unit need the temperature sensor to work? I believe that the climate controls work with the temperature sensor and lowers or raises the temperature based on what is set. With that thought in mind, without the sensor, setting the temp lower or higher wouldn't activate the A/C or heater, right? Or would this work?
Has this style of control module.
https://www.rockauto.com/info/315/15...mary__ra_p.jpg
Has this style of automatic climate controls.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/DbMAA...5t/*-l1600.jpg
Wanted to know if I could replace the control module with one of these kinds?
https://contentinfo.autozone.com/zne...A1619/image/4/
#2
Senior Member
You have no choice....bite the bullet and get the blower module.....
Your control head has no way of "controlling" a resistor block......nor a harness to connect to it....or a relay setup for high speed......
there is no temp sensor in the blower module.....
You have an outside temp sensor, and inside temp sensor, and two load sun sensors....they provide info to the HVAC head to control the blower speed AND discharge air temp, when in auto mode.....there is a feedback signal from the blower motor to the control head to know if the blower motor is getting power.......so if there is no power to the blower, it possible the control head will not send an ac request signal to the PCM, which controls the ac compressor relay...........
Of course there is also the possibility there is another problem, like low refrigerant, causing no AC....
So first, check out the circuits to the blower control module, before replacing it......basically power in, ground, and a variable input signal.....if ok, replace the module......then once you have the blower motor running, check to see if the AC clutch engages for AC.....
Your control head has no way of "controlling" a resistor block......nor a harness to connect to it....or a relay setup for high speed......
there is no temp sensor in the blower module.....
You have an outside temp sensor, and inside temp sensor, and two load sun sensors....they provide info to the HVAC head to control the blower speed AND discharge air temp, when in auto mode.....there is a feedback signal from the blower motor to the control head to know if the blower motor is getting power.......so if there is no power to the blower, it possible the control head will not send an ac request signal to the PCM, which controls the ac compressor relay...........
Of course there is also the possibility there is another problem, like low refrigerant, causing no AC....
So first, check out the circuits to the blower control module, before replacing it......basically power in, ground, and a variable input signal.....if ok, replace the module......then once you have the blower motor running, check to see if the AC clutch engages for AC.....
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CathedralCub (06-25-2018)
#3
Just bought a new module. Blower motor powers on. Found out it also had low freon and recharged it. Compressor clutch now turns on, didnt do it until the recharge. The air is only blowing out of the defrost vents and floor vents and isn't blowing cold air. The vents will not change when I select different vents on the climate controls. What would I need to check next? Maybe a faulty actuator or blend door?
#4
Senior Member
I felt you might have more than one problem.....
This car has an HVAC programmer......pull the glovebox down(think there are release tabs in both upper corners) to see it.....operate the temp selector to see if the actuator is moving.......the programmer has a vac manifold going into it at the bottom.....first you have to determine if you have vacuum.....the purple colored line is the source...it usually goes to a vac tank.......the source to the vac tank comes off the back of the engine, off the upper plenum....the other four colored lines go to the three actuators(one has two lines)...
If there is vac to the purple line, now comes the fun part.....the manifold is held onto the programmer by a nut, 8 or 10 mm......remove that, and then the manifold should come off, for test purposes......sometimes it sticks, and when you force it off, it breaks the plastic "****" that each colored vac line attaches to...then you are screwed......
So hope that you don't have vac on the purple line......hope that there is an open somewhere between the programmer and the upper plenum of the engine.....
As far as the A/C goes, is the low side line cold, going into the Evaporator? If yes, you might have a temp actuator problem(that is electrical, not vacuum).....if warm, not enough refrigerant.....
This car has an HVAC programmer......pull the glovebox down(think there are release tabs in both upper corners) to see it.....operate the temp selector to see if the actuator is moving.......the programmer has a vac manifold going into it at the bottom.....first you have to determine if you have vacuum.....the purple colored line is the source...it usually goes to a vac tank.......the source to the vac tank comes off the back of the engine, off the upper plenum....the other four colored lines go to the three actuators(one has two lines)...
If there is vac to the purple line, now comes the fun part.....the manifold is held onto the programmer by a nut, 8 or 10 mm......remove that, and then the manifold should come off, for test purposes......sometimes it sticks, and when you force it off, it breaks the plastic "****" that each colored vac line attaches to...then you are screwed......
So hope that you don't have vac on the purple line......hope that there is an open somewhere between the programmer and the upper plenum of the engine.....
As far as the A/C goes, is the low side line cold, going into the Evaporator? If yes, you might have a temp actuator problem(that is electrical, not vacuum).....if warm, not enough refrigerant.....
The following users liked this post:
CathedralCub (06-25-2018)
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