Dan, I do have all 4 bolts out of the frame side piece, but it does not want to slide straight up. I looked at the parts pics at NAPA and I might have to see if my local store has one in stock to just look at it to see if that is a metal sleeve that is inserted in the rubber part of that mount. Like I said, the area that I have marked in red appears to be a metal sleeve that is moulded(?) into the rubber and the long bolt goes through that and through the engine 1/2 of the assembly. Unless someone torqued the living crap out of that long bolt and bent in the outer ends of the engine half of the mount, I baffled why this thing won't come loose. And with the A/C pipes right there, prying space is not much.

Maybe the mini-gun is the answer.......

My local NAPA has the frame mount half so I'm going to go and look at it on my way home tonight. The guy at the store says that it does have a metal sleeve impregnated into the rubber, so I'm starting to think that maybe my sleeve is frozen to the engine half of the mount and a BFH may be in store in the near future. But if it'* that hard coming out, how hard is it going to be going back in? Jeez....

I don't remember having any problems separating my mount. I guess it'* possible someone cranked it to tight.

The sleeve is an integral part of the rubber bushing, and it is metal. The engine bracket simply rests on the top of that sleeve. The way the mount should work is that when the through bolt is removed, the motor should simply lift off of the sleeve by being jacked up. This is not happening in your case, so you need to make it happen.

My recommendation:
Ensure that the through bolt that holds the mount is removed <if it is not by now, we have nothing further to discuss, lol>
Bolt the frame side of the mount back up to the frame
Jack the engine up about an inch, one of two things will happen, the mount will separate, or it will bring the front end of the car with it. I am going to assume the latter is true.
Get you a piece of wood, something that will allow you to be in contact with the top of the frame side of the mound ONLY. You want the wood to be on top of nothing else. I think 1-2 foot long piece will be perfect, wide enough that it will be able to withstand your next trick, the BFH
Ideal BFH is 3-5lbs in this case, with short handle. This allows you precision, because this is not something you want to miss with. An application of a 8lb sledge to the incorrect location will likely result in further applications of said tool to the remainder of the car. Just a friendly warning from your fellow GM Forum enthusiast.
If the application of the BFH is unsuccessful, you may wish to soak the area with a penetrant (Ideally PB Blaster) and try again.
This technique, you have the weight of the vehicle being supported only by the bond that is there now, that shouldn't be. The shock of the hammer should release that bond, and the wood not only prevents metal on metal damage, it also allows you to hit only what you want to hit. Once the mount separates, you can unbolt it again, and then try to figure out how to get that stupid clip off the A/C lines. Once unclipped, it is easily removed.

Bolt the frame side of the mount back up to the frame

Okay.......I took a BAFPB (big *** *** pry bar) home with me last night and they are not seized together. I was able to lift the engine up almost off the frame side by prying inbetween the two mount sections. I need to get a block of wood that I can position right under the crank pulley and jack the engine up from there. I tried to jack the engine up by a block of wood using the oil pan as close to the crank as I could and it lifts the whole engine, not the front (passenger side).

My assumptions of the sleeve being 'captured' by the engine half is correct. The engine half of the mount is slotted and the engine half of the mount rests on top of the sleeve in normal use. This isn't visible when you look at it because the two sections are so close together.

Once I get it apart, I'll take some pics of the engine half of the mount for future reference of anyone needing to do the same repair.

I stopped and looked at the frame half of the mount yesterday at NAPA and the sleeve on the one they have is actually not round but teardrop shaped with the pointy part of the teardrop facing the ground. I'll be interested to see if the factory one is that way.

SUCCESS ! After looking under the engine I discovered that there is an area next to the oil filter that you can get a piece of 2x4 into that lifts right on the front of the engine. Also received the service manuals in the mail and read the section about the mount and jacked the engine up until the power steering reservoir touches the underside of the strut tower brace and then I could unbolt the engine half of it and has enough room to get the last water pump bolt out and get the pump out. Probably didn't even need to unbolt the frame side at all but it already was, so no big deal. The A/C lines make it rather tough to get the frame side out. When I realized I didn't need to remove it, I just left it loose.

Here is a diagram of the bracket from the service manual so you can see to inset of the bracket plus the directions from the manual.

Thanks for everyone'* assistance.

Like Willie Nelson said.......................on the road again.

It'* alway easier when you know how to do it. Good work.