Hello,
A few days ago my daughters 08 Grand Prix w/ the 3.8L V6 with 151,000 miles started to sputter and then stalled. I connected it to a scan tool and got a P0336 and P0341 code. I went to autozone and bought the crankshaft position sensor and the cam shaft sensor. I figured I would switch them both if I was going to switch one. I removed the serpentine belts, and tire, then removed the harmonic balancer and dust shield. I removed both sensors and repalced them w/ Duralast sensors. I reinstalled everything, cleared the codes, and started the car and pulled it out of the garage with in a few minutes it started to act the same as it did before the repair. I went back to garage and I got the same two codes. I disassebled everything again and removed both sensors and got new ones from autozone. I did everything again. This time I wnet super slow to try and make sure I didn everything right, but I don't see where I could ahve made a mistake. I put things back together but this time I read that I may need to relearn the system so I followed instructions to do so manualy I found online. I started the car, pressed the parking break, turned off the ac, put the car in park, reved the engine slowly until the fulel went off then I let off the accelerator. I did that a few times the engine seemed to run smotthly. I wnet to back the car up and it feels locked in place. I don't know how to describe it other then when I shft it all seems normal, I feel it shift, the R lights come on etc. but when on try to backup the tires feel locked in place. If I put the car in N even it feels locked in place. I ahve no idea what could be causing this. We are the first owner of this car and it has been taken care of. It had no problems until the issues that led to the crankshift pos and cam sesnor codes. What could be causing this? Im getting to a desperate point w/ this. I will add pictures of eveything in a second.

Harmonic balancer

Balancer removed

Sensor removed

New sensor attached

Code after first repair attempt

After I swaped the cam and crank sensor my test ride resulted in the same exact issues and the codes shown above. So I got new sensors just in case one was bad out of the box and started over. When I put everything back together I started the car it seemed to run smooth. I watched th belt all appeared good no wobbling over the pully, noises or vibration. I cleared the codes and tried the manual relearn process I read about online which was basicaly to turn the key to on, press parking break, turn off ac, start the car, rev the engine slowely until fuel off then release the accelerator. I did that a few times and the car seemed to run smooth. Then all of a sudden it sputtered again and stahled and wouldn't restart. I went inside for about 10 minutes came back out and started it and it started nice and smooth so I decided I would back it out of the garage and drive it a little. When I put it in revere it wouldn't move. I tried D,1,2,3, and N and it woudn't move. In N I can't even push the car and this is out of the blue. The car just had the transmisson fluid changed in the last 10K miles and we noticed no transmission or other issues before the crank/cam sensor issue.

It is possible the emergency brake is stuck on or something like that???

I have been woring on this for three days now and I'm starting to get discouraged.

Any help or even discussion will be appreciated.

Thanks

I just tried one more test which leads me to belive the emeregncy brake is stuck possibly. I put the car in R and hist the gas a little and the same it felt like it wanted to go back but couldn't so I gave it a little more gas and it did start to go back it just felt like it was being held. AT that point I didn't want to press any further and then it give free and launch myself into the tree on the other side of the driveway: ) Any advice on this? I also don't think the crank sensor sisue is fixed but I can't tell until I can drive the car.

Thanks

Jack up the rear end and see if you can spin the wheels...

Do you have a dvom and know hoe to use it? You will want to test the crank sensor circuit once you have your locked wheels figured out.

@Tech II I jacked up the rear and neather rear tire would spin so I took off both tires and sure enough the brake pads were clamped down tight on the rotars. The e brake connections look really rusted. Im assuming this issue is a bad or rusted e brake cable. Any thoughts on how I can free that so I van at least fix test my cranksensor issue? Then I can come back and repalce this cable later if I need too.

@carfixer007 carfixeri do have a dvom. Im not an expert but i do know how to use it. Any info on how I check the crank sensor circuit? Thanks for your help. I think I really need it. I was feeling fairly hosed earlier today

We'll get you through it. Can you first look at the freeze frames and see what the engine was doing at the time the codes set? Did they both set at the same time?
Let'* start there.