roll eyes were not directed at you...i know how you post....

i am aware that the SSEi has a different rack than than a SLE with FE2 if equipped

and i am also aware that a car that has T2V with the different suspension options are also different ratios

ive dont ALL the research prior to my swap, i talked to Don numberous times....DO actually know what im talking about when it comes to suspensions and the Bonneville

You claim to know all about the suspension, yet you tell Ryan to get the FE2 rack (which doesn't exist and might cause him to get the wrong rack)?

When the Gearheads of this Forum (and the other Staff prone to this type of advice) give out advice with regards to part numbers, we RESEARCH it AGAIN.

This morning, Don was POSITIVE on the phone with me that Ryan had the wrong springs. We looked it up. You should do the same regardless of what you think you know or how sure you are.

This topic and it'* level of confusion and misinformation are a DIRECT result of information being given out OFFLINE where it cannot be checked by the experts.

Let'* get this back on topic now. Bandit is going to do the FULL FE2 swap the last I heard. This should and probably will include a full ELC swap, as it'* a critical calculated part of the FE2 package in our application.

If he still experiences a 'push' in his cornering, I will help him fix that the right way, in the same manner I did on the Zilla. Due to differences from spring to spring, and front to rear, he may not need to. There are several different 'grades' of FE1 and FE2 springs, and you don't have a choice when you get them in a box unless you have the luxury of measuring them all in a warehouse.

Time will tell when Ryan gets to that point.

Yes, Wren is right

Im going to do everything Don and Wren suggested to do.


And pat...

:P

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...184&highlight=

good you have the T2V.....makes things easire later on if you swap a different ratio rack

yup

witch i may.

remember, this is going to be my winter/work car once i get a SSEi, so i dont need everything a Ei has....


Just most

The only reason why im doing all this FE2 stuff to it, is cuz i need new springs and struts all the way around, i have 182K on my car now so there pretty worn out. so i figured spend just a bit more, and i mean just a bit, the FE2 Springs where only $2 more then the FE1
and the struts are only like $10 more each.. sooo.. its worth it to me

Bandit, I'm in the same boat as you in terms of needing to replace most of my suspension......

....except I already have FE2 :P

BTW, I thought you already replaced your struts, or at least the rears. :?

i did the front, when i got the car, the guy i boght it from had bought some off ebay used.
They where Sensa Track Quick Struts. so i put them on cuz there way newer then the stock ones. They where used but in allot better shape.

So im just going to change out the front springs.



Edit*
and as you can see there a little of a PITA to get the bolts loose

Yeah, that'* exactly why I'm having a friend of a friend do my struts this month. I'm not wrestling with any old nasty bolts.

To me, the correct way to tune suspension, is to adjust damping, and spring rate at the struts/springs, with correct rebound for the driveable weight/intended purpose of the car, and tires used with the car.

Adjusting sway bar strength is the key to adjusting the resistance of the car to sway in the corners. Compared to a balanced car, a looser front end will make the car turn in easier, while a looser rear will make the car harder to turn. When we did my FE2 sway swap, we only got the front in on our original work day, and I had to drive for almost a week with an FE2/F41 front sway, with FE1 rear sway. It was dangerous to say the least, with a stiffer front bias, the car was harder to turn then normal.

It'* common amongst car performance modders to change the rear sway, but not the front. Using overly stiff spring rates, or coil spacers isn't the optimal way to adjust cornering loads, roll, and turn-in unless the anti-sway adjustability is not possible. GTO boards, W body boards, BMW boards, etc all do rear sway only on a lot of cars because of the ease of installation, and what they want to change about their handling.

As stated, most cars, (especially domestics) are made to "push" from the factory, so people don't over-react and cause an accident. Stiffening up the rear actually brings the car into balance relative to OEM in most street cars.

Again, this is just another opinion. The front sway bar takes a bit of time to get out on the 92-99 cars, if "pushing" is your major concern, i would not spend the time getting it swapped out. This is only one piece of the puzzle, and what your priorities are suspension wise, should determine what you want to run as far as equipment, etc.