If you have the dough-age for an IC I'd say save up for a few more weeks and get the cam kit also...
Thats what I'd do.....but one or the other....cam/throw in lifters/push rods, too

I'm going to agree with everyone and say CAM hands down.

Ed

What is the difficulty of installing a cam in a L67? I've never dug inside one of these other than pulling the LIM and SC which I thought was easy enough to do.

I'm guessing the motor will need to be pulled completely?

I was leaning toward the IC route because of the ease of install. I know of no one in my state that I would trust in putting a cam in my car. I figure if I have good documention i can do it myself..I guess I'd like to look at writeup of the procedure. (Other than what my chiltons or hayes manuals say). What other specialized tools are required to make the cam install easier?

Regardless, at my altitude I can only pull 9.3PSI of boost where at sea level I was in the high 13s low 14s, the car feels like a stock SSEi up here and the mod bug has given me west nile or something. In answering the other questions, no I dont have headers yet, I'm waiting for the results of members here and on another forum with the pacesetters to report back any problems with them.

I was surprised at the ease of swaping cams and supports goodies. But I’ve been lucky enough to have an ex motor builder help me out. Most of the swap is pretty straight forward. It’* just many little things to watch for and tricks to doing some things I would have never known.

My motor has been out.. Heck it’* not even in the car yet but I’m guess you need to remove it in any situation with the 3800 and if you didn’t I’m sure that’d be just a good ole time.

Special tools: Engine hoist, Spring compressor, torque wrenches, something to hold your valves up; box of Band-Aids. To name a few

Ed

you can put the cam in without removing the motor, do it right through the pass front fender well.

Somebody was sayin that all you have to do is drop the sub-frame a little bit and it'll slip through the pass fender. I don't know if that'* the 2k'* or the OBS too.

Let'* clear something up here...

Cam install through the wheel well. 00+ and GP'* it'* a cake walk because the motor mount on the passenger side is hooked to the subframe. Aka holds the motor up if you support the subframe.

92-99 is different, the only thing holding the motor is the torque axis mount. This mount is attached to the body. If you want to drop the subframe, get double the jacks. It can be done, however you much jockey the subframe seperately than the motor. You will have the car, the motor and the subframe all seperately. Pulling the motor takes about 3 hours for a first timer with ambition and a few tips/tricks from the vets. I pulled my motor each time and overall it'* not bad, just some wrenching. There are many ways to save time and I noticed this when JR'* and Ed McGrath did their engine pulls.

However if you honestly want to understand how hard a cam is.. ask TJ.. he had never dug that far into the motor and watched/assisted through the whole process. Our special tools included a big spool of string, no power, torque wrenches and some brake cleaner/razor blades to clean gasket surfaces.

The cam is right behind the timing cover. To get to it you remove the accessory bracket that holds the alternator and harmonic balancer. Remove all the 13mm bolts on the timing cover and oil pan bolts under the timing cover only. (leave the waterpump on the timing cover with it'* 10mm bolts ). Now remove the cam bolt, then the gears and chain come off, remove the thrust plate with a couple torx head bolts, gently and slowly remove the cam. Insert lubed new cam in...gently and slowly and then reassemble. At this point there are dots on the gears to line up. Following your chiltons or FSM'* will give you all the assembly/disassembly steps and torque specs. Before you can remove the cam...you must remove the rockers, pushrods and lifters. All very easy and under the valve cover/intake manifold..

Rockers alone are much easier. intercooler is easier yet..Overall...nothing is hard with proper sequencing, torquing and a little time.

We dropped the passenger side subframe on Ben'* L36 and went through the wheel well. A floor jack with a board on it gave the engine the support it needed to be lowered a few inches.