Yes. Especially the 87-91'*.

yeah, we have lots of extra room . So, our tranny can handle the power? because in the Techinfo, it states, you cannot add a supercharger to the LN3, due to our transmission not being as strong as a supercharged engine'* tranny.


-justin

Beef up your tranny. Dont ask me how; maybe go to a local performance or tranny shop..?

yeah i know i would have to get a new tranny, its proably gonna go in a year or so but i hope not.

but yeah tons of room under my hood

Wasn't the late '80s Turbo TransAm (not to be confused with the early early 80s one) have a turbo charged 3.8L V6?t (maybe the '89 turbo trans am)??
Wasn't it like the fastest trans am of all time too, yet severely underrated ors omething... someone give my mind a boost here.

Mike Diaz

the Turbo Regal, Ttype Regal, Grand national, GNX ... all the same car with the same engine just different levels of engine/driveline/suspension tune. This car died in 1987. the motor was given one last chance in 1989 in a special edition 3.8 turbo Trans am(I personally beleive it was to clear out the warehouse with the turbo 3.8'* and 200R4'*)

there was also a late 70'* turbo V8 trans am... that was a huge disapointment

anyways... I wanted to turbo my delta88 .... and I'm still considering it for the slightly worked
engine I should be building while trying to blow up my current one but my "3" was built differently then the "C" and up 3800'*... however the basic design of the engine is similar enough

heres what I've been able to figure out so far

- unless you wanna have your trans custom rebuilt (I'm honestly thinking of having a trans sent to level10) stay around 250 hp... it'* the torque and the heat abuse that kills the trans and well the Hbody and the 3.8/3800 can produce alot.

- mounting the turbo is brutally easy... you don't need custom manifolds like a lot of other ppl, you just need a flange added to your existing Xover pipe and remove a flange on the rear manifold. then run the exhaust back into your existing pipe off the elbow of the turbo.

- heres where it gets sticky... fuel and timing ... fortunately there are several piggy backs on the market to help ... but this is where you're gonna make or break the motor. I recommend split second myself http://www.splitsec.com (the boosted and N/A should check this stuff out)

- intercooler... so you've got a bigger trans cooler, oil cooler to keep your engine from killing itself... a/c condenser to stop from killing yourself... and now you gotta find space for a intercooler... the good news is ... you don't need a massive one... a stocker from a turbo/svo mustang or a Tbird should be plenty (they are actually one of the most effecient intercoolers for their size and good to almost 300hp)


so basically it'* not "hard" ... you just can't throw the turbo on and be all good...

now for my turbo suggestions

find these cars
- turbo MR2
- Turbo supra (3rd gen, not the last 4th gen)

these are CT26'* and good for around 300-340 hp

- turbo/SVO mustang
- Turbo T-bird
- 2.2/2.5 Dodge turbo

these are T3 (or T3 sized IHI'* depending on year) - these are good for about 275-300 hp
but there are several different trims depending on year/model this will affect top hp and spool speed.

the IHI'* and very few of the T3'* were water cooled and oil cooled

personally I would get a CT26 or an IHI from an auto Turbo bird


so yeah.. the biggest issues are trans abuse, tuning and internal strength other then the L67(lucky bastards).. on stock internals I wouldn't try going over 250-260 hp

Cant the L36'* handle up to 9psi, as long as the horsepower does not go above 250?

You'd NEED 91 or higher octane i bet. They have a high compression for turboing. It'* 9.5:1, All 3800'* except the L36 have 8.5:1 which is much more turbo friendly. I know L27'* have a forged crank, but i wouldn't throw more then 10PSI at those stock rods. For the turbo you'll need to plug it into your exhaust, run the pipe to your intake manifold, get a BOV, turbo timer, new fuel tables, oil lines, and L67 fuel setup (if N/a). You'll want an intercooler to reduce KR, and make damn sure your engine doesn't have anything like failing gakets or piston blow-by happening., or you'll just make them worse.

That'* just touching the surface. After that you tune, tune tune tune tune tune tune...

would a turbo from a buick grand national work?
something like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...918861827&rd=1

unless you plan on throwing a whole bunch of money into your internals... anything bigger then a T3/T28/CT26/T25 is pretty useless.. you won't use what the turbo has to offer..and with the bigger turbo all your doing is lagging waiting for it to spool.

as for the "max psi" thing... forget it... the CR to Psi "rules" only really work properly if the turbo is totally matched to the engine... I know several 9.5:1 CR n/a motors throwing 14psi on a regular basis on stock internals

but these guys also spent alot of time working up to that level... piggy backs, propane injection, water/alc injection etc etc etc

a 3.8 with a CT26 should pretty much spool quicker then a */c 3800 ... and still throw enough air to support just over 300hp

premium fuel.. yes... bov... not needed.. and on MAF cars a reroute valve back into the intake tract is what you really want... (dumping already metered air does nasty things to your a/f)... this comes even more into effect with an auto car... as the only time it'll blow off is when you let off the throttle... if you vent metered air to atomsphere lifting throttle to slow down/stop your gonna get real rich and stumble or die. when the car shifts theres no throttle plate closing , no reason to vent the pressure between shifts.