I'm gonna say you're right there will. Torque steer is caused by different length of the drive axles. My teacher told me first, and you're the second person I've heard it from. And now I know not to do an LSD. I was mulling it over myself. Thanx guys!

There are perhaps half a dozen cars here that need an LSD. And a couple that probably need, but don't have. I think the biggest benefit would be for Merlin 91/97, as he spends alot of time on a road course. The AutoX guys would too.

Rogue, I went out and did a test last night. Both my twins START at exactly the same spot on both cars as well. I'm not sure where the spin rate difference can come from, but I have my differential that exploded right here, and there'* no possible way one wheel can spin at a different rate than the other in a straight line.

Thank you for the input everyone. I'm trying to compile a list of what I want to do to the car come next year when I start spending.

I am for sure going to have my transmission proactively rebuilt with a full shift kit. I am for sure going to have someone who knows what they're doing port the exhaust manifolds and the lower intake manifold. I am for sure sending out a set of injectors for flow matching. I also am sure there'* a magniflow high-flow cat and muffler going on. There ain't no doubt there'* a smaller pulley coming on .

I MAY switch to an electric fuel pump. I MAY have an LSD put in; or I might have other things done instead of spending the $500 on a LSD, if other things are suggested.

I don't know about other things until I read about them and ask more questions

For the 4t60, you can upgrade to a 4t65-hd diff/cover/sungear/bonnie 4t65-hd ps axle. It'* not a LSD but it'* most certainly bigger and stronger. It'* put a ZZP car into the 9'* too.
So, it'* not the best, but it'* just as good as all the clutch type LSD'* IMO.

95, I'm not sure that'* all worth it when the 4T60 can have a HD diff like I had built and not have to convert anything else.

Well, how proven are your parts, what exactly did they do, and how much did it cost?

My parts are proven by the guy that'* installed dozens of these built the same in Series 1 L67'* since they came out. He'* been rebuilding transmissions since about 20 years ago. He'* NEVER had a broken pin or a fragged diff come back to him from a 4T60E (HD). That'* a pretty good track record considering the volume of work this shop does.

He built up a custom HD differential with all aftermarket hard parts to stronger specs than OEM. I don't recall the breakout exactly, as it was invoiced with the rest of the rebuild, but I recall it being $200 total. Keep in mind my diff was fragged, and had to be replaced totally anyway, so how much extra it cost me from the cost of an OEM off the shelf pre-built diff, I have no idea, but it couldn't have been much.

Many of the performance hard parts that went into my trans were from aftermarket sources that are actually cheaper than OEM parts.

Stronger pins, stronger gears, and an improved housing were used to build it. Considering it'* usually the pin that breaks or lets loose and backs out that causes most of the 60(HD) diff failures, we've nipped this one in the bud.

I'm assuming these dozens are mostly stock? It still dosen't seem as worth it compared to the 4t65-hd diff.

I'll counter with the same questions....

Stock Series 1 L67'* blow stock diffs. Stock Series 1 L67'* don't blow HD diffs built by Don at http://www.continentaltransmissionre...om/index.shtml

How many 65E diffs have been proven in 4T60'*? How different are they than what I had built? What'* the cost of all the other parts to make the conversion?

Your only ONE person that I heard about using 'don'* diff'. I've never heard anything about them untill you went there. To me, thats not a risk I'd take.

How many 4t65-HD diffs have been proven in the 4t60? Why would it matter if it'* in the 4t65 or 4t60? I know 1 65 in the 60 has been put in the 12'*. And the 4t65-HD diff have been put into the 9'*,10'*,11'*,12'*,13'* etc.

And the price of converson all depends on how handy you are. From a u-pull-it it could be very cheap. Of course the diff should be dissassembled to check for scoring etc.