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Old 11-14-2013, 11:10 AM   #1
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Default Trans am rough idle after changing water pump

95 trans am 126,000 miles, bone stock. The car sat in a barn for 10 years the woman before me who got it first ( 3 years ago ) only changed the oil and brakes. Now that I have it I noticed it wanting to overheat ( with no leaks ) so I checked the obvious and it turns out the thermostat was surely from 1995 and it was stuck so I changed it, then I noticed a small leak I then found out the water pump was leaking from the weep hole, it still drove fine no problems whatsoever only the slight getting hot part ( I never let it get in the red ) so I changed the water pump a few days ago and I had to remove tons of crap to get it off ( air pump, ignition coil etc. ) now the car idles kind of rough it levels out eventually this isn't a misfire, the opti wasn't wet or damaged during the change. It acts more like it may run out of gas, kind of boggy like it would if you unhooked the map sensor, I also noticed a whistle noise coming from the air pump area, I'm pretty sure I put everything back on right there is no leaks, no smoke, no backfire, no blown gaskets etc. just runs a little funny not too bad but it'* noticeable, any advise will be much appreciated, when I moved the old vacuum lines 2 did break but I slid rubber hoses over the breaks so they are sealed. Again I know this isn't the opti spark.
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Old 11-14-2013, 11:41 AM   #2
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Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Something dislodged or cracked from all the work you did. Spray some carb cleaner around the vacuum hoses and fittings with the engine running. A change in RPM means you found the leak.
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Old 11-14-2013, 11:47 AM   #3
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sounds like a vacuum issue, make sure they are back in the right spots and are actually sealed. vacuum line is cheap and alot of times easier to just replace it all than track down issues with it
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Old 11-14-2013, 11:47 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by 2kg4u View Post
Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Something dislodged or cracked from all the work you did. Spray some carb cleaner around the vacuum hoses and fittings with the engine running. A change in RPM means you found the leak.
I'll look into that thanks.. It'* only real boggy if you push down hard on the throttle, then it catches. Going up hill with the cruise on it studders as well. Their is only 2 air lines near the things I had to take off. Those 2 lines are sealed, the old intake hose busted where it goes into the intake manifold, I bought a new one yesterday and it made the car run a little better than before so I did figure it was some kind of vacuum leak somewhere.
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Old 11-14-2013, 12:12 PM   #5
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Justin has a good point. For a 95 that sat in a barn for 10 years, you would be best off to change all the vacuum lines. Won't cost a lot of money and will save you from a lot of problems.
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Old 11-14-2013, 12:31 PM   #6
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Justin has a good point. For a 95 that sat in a barn for 10 years, you would be best off to change all the vacuum lines. Won't cost a lot of money and will save you from a lot of problems.
Would you know where I could find a line diagram?
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Old 11-14-2013, 12:32 PM   #7
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sounds like a vacuum issue, make sure they are back in the right spots and are actually sealed. vacuum line is cheap and alot of times easier to just replace it all than track down issues with it
Thanks, I figured a vacuum leak could possibly be the problem, I was just wanting to see if anyone else might agree.
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Old 11-14-2013, 05:00 PM   #8
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if its not stuck to the car, i think it would be in the service manual they have if you sign up on autozone, they are free if you sign up to the site.
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Old 11-14-2013, 05:14 PM   #9
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if its not stuck to the car, i think it would be in the service manual they have if you sign up on autozone, they are free if you sign up to the site.
Thanks.
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Old 11-14-2013, 05:42 PM   #10
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Is this a V-8? If it is the distributer is behind the waterpump and you might of got some coolant on it. The LT1 motors didn't like moisture at all. It doesn't come as a seperate cap and rotor either you have to replace the dist assembly if it'* bad.
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