well guys, after seeing thrasher'* site about the torque arms, i went to a local stock car shop and got strut rods, hiem joints, brackets and 5/8" grade 8 bolts and nylon lock nuts. installed them on my car sat. and went racing sunday. the brackets are welded at the lower control arm and the front of the frame. it is to eliminate torque steer. i went to the track with them on after driving 60 miles to get there, handled great. at the track, it used pull hard right when i launched it, now it goes straight. i was shocked how much they helped. it also knocked .06 secs off my 60' time too. that equals over a 1/10th in the 1/4 mile. here are 2 pics of them installed. any questions , please ask away

i have $86 in parts, but couldnt get my car in the shop to get them welded because we were so busy, so i had to go to another shop on a sat. afternoon and cost me 100 bux to get them welded on. so i have a total of 186 bux in them. definitly well worth the money in my opinion. thrasher wants 189.99 with shipping for them and you have to still get them welded on.

i mounted mine in the cross member in the front and to tthe lower control arms. but a word of advise. plate the cross member first before welding the mounts on, first we welded them to the cross member, after 3 runs, it ripped the right one right out of the frame. so we plated it with 1/8" steel plates and then welded the mounting hardware on, ill take some new pics this weekend at the track, my dig cam sux so ill use a reg. cam and have them made to disc. the stock car strut rods are made out of alum. farm stores are steel and heavy, plus once they are on, you need to let it sit with the weight on the wheels and loosen them, then make them fit so they can move a little then set the lock nuts. if you dont, it will change your caster setting