TOG headers INSTALLED - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 03-28-2007, 08:52 AM   #11
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Well...Mr. Strap on, has some kick butt tools. This is a get what you pay for thing. The pivot point on the socket is a ball pivot with no binding. This makes removing the rear manifold exhaust bolts/studs from underneath a quick easy procedure.
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Old 03-28-2007, 02:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Well...Mr. Strap on, has some kick butt tools. This is a get what you pay for thing. The pivot point on the socket is a ball pivot with no binding. This makes removing the rear manifold exhaust bolts/studs from underneath a quick easy procedure.
wonder how you know that

but in all Seriousness, they are Kick ***
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Old 04-25-2007, 05:52 PM   #13
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Default [updated with pics] TOG header install

Well I got home from work about 45mins ago and my TOGs have finally arrived. After watching my tracking # for 2 weeks they've finally made it here and on my baby’* 2nd birthday too!

I've spotted a few things I could clean up on the inside of the pipes but nothing major. Now I'll be really exited once I get them on















Bag O goodies


I also ordered my w-body dipstick and a FWI along with a few other things from Intense yesterday.
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Old 04-26-2007, 12:05 AM   #14
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Have fun!! That'* gonna rock!!
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Old 04-26-2007, 12:27 AM   #15
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I'm surprised about how far the EGR tube sticks out into the inside. Mine was almost flush on the inside.

There were no major interferences with the TOG'* in +00 Bonnes except for some minor trimming of the steering rack heat shield.

Might be more of a challenge with the 95.

It will be worth the trouble in the end.
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Old 04-26-2007, 02:13 AM   #16
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I'm surprised about how far the EGR tube sticks out into the inside.
Me too, But I'll have that flush before they go on.

Also there is a big bur from where they drilled the hole for the O2 bung & on the inside of the rear collector there is some splatter from welding I'll clean up. I'm glad I finally got these but looking at a few small things I can tell TOG was in a hurry when they were putting them together.

But one question with these headers, shouldn't I have some graphite gasket or something for when they bolt to the heads?
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Old 04-26-2007, 07:51 AM   #17
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The GM metal gaskets would be good, you can probably reuse the ones currently on your car without a problem. The Series 2'* all seems to have the metal multilayer gaskets on both front and back.

Depending on your future plans..I'll toss out a suggestion. Consider removing the studs in the heads. When you pull the exhaust on your car..the left and rightmost fastening points are studs into the heads for alignment. I found it easier to have the studs out of the way and use regular bolts in those places. M8x1.25 pitch.

Looks nice Ed... we know you are going to enjoy them. (BTW..don't forget about the 10mm EGR pipe bolt in the back, it'* slightly hidden)
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Old 04-26-2007, 05:29 PM   #18
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Thanks for all the info Bill! (to bad I just placed a order with Intense like 2 days ago; I guess I'll have to pick up more goodies than just gaskets )

I don't know if my co worker is going to be doing my headers now cause his welder just took a crap. And I think his wife doesn't want him to spend a bunch of money on a new one now Although my uncle works for Lincoln Electric so I can help him get a deal. I still don't think his boss will allow that. It looks like I may be contacting Ed Morad about installing them as his shop is only 30miles from my house. Either way I don't want to stare at these shiny things very long.
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Old 04-27-2007, 12:30 AM   #19
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Quote:
Consider removing the studs in the heads. When you pull the exhaust on your car..the left and rightmost fastening points are studs into the heads for alignment. I found it easier to have the studs out of the way and use regular bolts in those places.
I didn't have studs. All were bolts from the factory.

Yes you can reuse the stock gaskets.
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Old 04-27-2007, 07:44 AM   #20
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That is odd about the studs Paul, the 01 motor had them as well. Maybe your threads were crusty and the studs came out with them.

Ed... I completely agree, get them on and working. In the meantime of having mine welded I was able to use a 3" ID to 2.5"OD reducer and clamp it in place gently w/o any leaks. That got me until the next weekend when I could have the 3" cat and flange welded in. This is your only car correct?
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