About 2 weeks ago I purchased a set of Silver Ceramic TOGs from 3800performance.com I've been waiting for them to show up but I talked to a sales rep ( Rob or Bob last night) and found out I will have to wait a little while because of a material shortage @ TOG. . And found out that 3800performance has 40 sets being made in California right now and about half of those are already sold.

Needless to say I'm starting this thread I had originally planed on starting once I had my headers here with pretty pictures. But aside from needing a W-body dipstick what else will need to be modified or needed to make this install as smooth as possible? I've heard the front motor mount?

A co-worker of mine who is our master welder and an ASE mechanic (We call him Mr. Universal at work because he can do it all) will be doing most of the work for me.

Please help me make this as smooth as possible any input would be welcomed!

Ed

The w-body tranny dip stick will need to be tweaked to make it fit right, Mine comes up by the brake cylinder.

By changing out the front engine mount you limit the amount of movement at the headers flex ppe. Without it this joint will eventually fail and leak exhaust.

The front will go easy and the rear will be a nightmare, take your time and curse lots :P

4 years ago i went through the samething with back orders and zzp for my headers, was worth the wait

Im not sure about the TOG'* but the SLP'* you need a Casper'* Electronics 02 Sensor Extension Harness.


http://www.intense-racing.com/Mercha...tegory_Code=IE

So modifying the front mount is not needed?


The TOGs come with the harness


How close does the down pipe on the TOGs come to the factory rectangle flange on the cat?



Ed

You have to chop off a little bit off the top of the strut mount.

It was still hitting in that pic so I have to cut about a 1/4" off to clear.
My 95 stering rack wouldn't allow for the original O2 location. There was zero room.


I have read that later racks have no problem. (foghorn?)

Thanks for the pictures... I've seen that second one before. As for grinding off a chunk of the strut mount that is no problem. I think I heard that the 96-99 had to trim some sort of shield that covers some of the power steering lines. I'm hoping foghorn sees this thread.


Ed

Only being able to talk from the SLP'*, the install was a dream. Easier than stock manifolds IMO.

The trick, get a lift or jack the car up nice and high. Unbolt the crossover, hop under the car with a long extension (close to 3 foot) and a ball pivot deep 6 point 13mm socket. With a helper up top to guide the socket to some of the tougher to see bolts, you'll have the rear manifold off in 10 minutes.

The SLP'* rubbed on a nub in a heatshield on the firewall. Upon inspection at Intense (thakns again Tim )...there'* NOTHING behind that nub, quick adjustment and the nub was no longer an issue. Nub~~> <~~You.

PDad mentions you'd want to take the movement out of the motor if possible. The 2000'* have a ton more movement than the 92-99'*. Although I chose to solve the trans mount clearance issue and remove the movement at the same time. I have about 3/4"-1" clearnance to the headers.

I don't have pics of the DP area (all part of the rear header on SLP), but it looks about 1,000 times better than Mikes pics. Whether the PS lines are different or something..They slid riight up and in w/o a squeak on the back of the motor.

Literally, the only issue was the front trans mount.

Thanks for your response Bill. Any other advice would be great too if any one else had any input.

I think I'll leave the trans mount how it is for now. As for the dp I'm keeping my hoganperformance bolt in cat and I'm going to make a flange at work to mate right up to it (or if work stays busy just buy one lol)



Ed

My best advice..find a snap on guy ..

Impact 13mm deep ball pivot socket.

Snap on as in the tools? They stop by our shop pretty often to check on our mechanic to see if he or any of us in the machine shop need/ want anything. Most of us call him the strap on guy cause of the prices

Ed