super charger?
08-31-2007, 09:02 AM
#11
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Well remeber you can get a HD differntial from Ed Morad to put in your Non-HD trans. I " hear " that it is not to difficult. And it =change your gear ratio. Many who have done the Top-end swap also do this at the same time. Just throwing that out there.
08-31-2007, 10:39 AM
#12
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
When my L67 crank got er uh..accidentally damaged, I checked into the L36 alternative.
Performance Vendors said for long term daily driver, do not do it.
Local performance enthusiasts that had the L36 in their supercharged cars said do not do it.
Overall the resounding majority said not to mix and match. L67 was built that way for a specific reason.
Then looking for motors around here showed me that the L36 was in higher demand because of the UIM failure than the L67 and the L67 was priced lower.
Performance Vendors said for long term daily driver, do not do it.
Local performance enthusiasts that had the L36 in their supercharged cars said do not do it.
Overall the resounding majority said not to mix and match. L67 was built that way for a specific reason.
Then looking for motors around here showed me that the L36 was in higher demand because of the UIM failure than the L67 and the L67 was priced lower.
08-31-2007, 10:57 AM
#13
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I'll throw in my change...
What I learned applies to the S1, not the S2...so keep that in mind. But both series engines had the same TYPE of changes between super and NA (with the exception of the heads on the S2'*).
is a top-swap possible? Sure is. I did it with my SSEi. Will it run? Sure will. One would be hard pressed to notice the difference in the way it runs. But...there are consequences.
Everyone knows the main difference between the super and the non-supers are the pistons and rods, in the way that they are both designed and constructed. But there is one thing most people forget about, and that is the supercharged pistons are coated on the crowns with a very sturdy heat-dissapating coating. Non-supercharged engines do not have this. I bring this up because when I really get on the throttle, I get KR. And I have ruled out all (and yes, i mean ALL) the usual suspects. My KR numbers aren't that bad anymore, but they still exist, and i credit my lack of coating on the pistons for that.
S2 engines may or may not feature this coating. I haven't had the pleasure in disecting one yet to know. But it IS something to keep in mind.
What I learned applies to the S1, not the S2...so keep that in mind. But both series engines had the same TYPE of changes between super and NA (with the exception of the heads on the S2'*).
is a top-swap possible? Sure is. I did it with my SSEi. Will it run? Sure will. One would be hard pressed to notice the difference in the way it runs. But...there are consequences.
Everyone knows the main difference between the super and the non-supers are the pistons and rods, in the way that they are both designed and constructed. But there is one thing most people forget about, and that is the supercharged pistons are coated on the crowns with a very sturdy heat-dissapating coating. Non-supercharged engines do not have this. I bring this up because when I really get on the throttle, I get KR. And I have ruled out all (and yes, i mean ALL) the usual suspects. My KR numbers aren't that bad anymore, but they still exist, and i credit my lack of coating on the pistons for that.
S2 engines may or may not feature this coating. I haven't had the pleasure in disecting one yet to know. But it IS something to keep in mind.
08-31-2007, 11:21 AM
#15
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Add up those costs, Jared. 
And yes, a top swap kit was available when you did your full swap.
Series 1 and 2 L67 pistons are coated, and the top ring on the piston is lower to prevent chipping under detonation. Wrist pins and rods are both different. As are the axles. There are alot more differences that aren't normally discussed.
And yes, a top swap kit was available when you did your full swap.
Series 1 and 2 L67 pistons are coated, and the top ring on the piston is lower to prevent chipping under detonation. Wrist pins and rods are both different. As are the axles. There are alot more differences that aren't normally discussed.
08-31-2007, 11:57 AM
#16
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I could maybe understand it if you wanted to build it specifically for racing or something. Around here an L67 can be found cheaper than an L36 due to the UIM issues.
The labor to swap the entire motor is much less than doing heads etc.
The labor to swap the entire motor is much less than doing heads etc.
08-31-2007, 01:58 PM
#17
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Some of you may Put an SC on an L36 Bottom end... Thats fine and dandy... And in some cases it works... But I won't recommend it...
I didn't recommend the L27 Usage in Brads car... But we knew it would work... And at the time there was a lack of series I L67'* under 150K...
We used the L27 Knowing fully that it could have issues down the road..
The good thing about the L27 is that it does have some serious wrist pins, I think they are extremely close to the L67 91-95, Difference being Rods, pistons and a floating wrist pin for the 67... Even the L27 is a pretty stout motor from the word go...
The wrist Pins on the L36 are smaller than the Series II L67 by a decent bit... Then there are the Rod and Piston differences..
Again it comes down to.... Does it work? Sure it does.... Will it make Power? Sure it will... How long will it last? No One knows.... Would I do this or recommend it? No
Now If I wanted a Blower on top of a 3800, I would simply do an L67 Swap
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I didn't recommend the L27 Usage in Brads car... But we knew it would work... And at the time there was a lack of series I L67'* under 150K...
We used the L27 Knowing fully that it could have issues down the road..
The good thing about the L27 is that it does have some serious wrist pins, I think they are extremely close to the L67 91-95, Difference being Rods, pistons and a floating wrist pin for the 67... Even the L27 is a pretty stout motor from the word go...
The wrist Pins on the L36 are smaller than the Series II L67 by a decent bit... Then there are the Rod and Piston differences..
Again it comes down to.... Does it work? Sure it does.... Will it make Power? Sure it will... How long will it last? No One knows.... Would I do this or recommend it? No
Now If I wanted a Blower on top of a 3800, I would simply do an L67 Swap
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08-31-2007, 04:51 PM
#20
Boost on a hypereutectic piston that has a pressed wrist pin? No thank you.... Rods and crank, I'd run with since they're lighter. I'd deffinately ditch the pistons, and pray for the rods.