L36: Pressure wave tuned intake runners...
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L36: Pressure wave tuned intake runners...
Here'* some explination:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question517.htm
http://succ.shirazu.ac.ir/~motor/page7f.htm
This could probably be done by adding a spacer with the correct height between a HVII and the LIM, or milling the top of the LIM and/or bottom of the HVII.
Does anyone have any other info on this or any good books on it?
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question517.htm
http://succ.shirazu.ac.ir/~motor/page7f.htm
This could probably be done by adding a spacer with the correct height between a HVII and the LIM, or milling the top of the LIM and/or bottom of the HVII.
Does anyone have any other info on this or any good books on it?
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I found some more info:
http://www.chrysler300club.com/uniq/.../ramtheory.htm
Ok, that website seems much more accurate.
For my GT cam (Intake duration 210*)
@ 6k (I figure to keep the torque curve up even more)
@ 160* for the speed of sound in air (1220.81 ft/sec)
The correct length would be 103.77"
You could then divide that by a number to get close to the intake runner length you have now. (ex. divide by 10 to get 10.377")
So every 10th bounce will give some degree of ram induction...
Hmmm I gotta go pull my UIM to see what the length is with the HVII...
http://www.chrysler300club.com/uniq/.../ramtheory.htm
Ok, that website seems much more accurate.
For my GT cam (Intake duration 210*)
@ 6k (I figure to keep the torque curve up even more)
@ 160* for the speed of sound in air (1220.81 ft/sec)
The correct length would be 103.77"
You could then divide that by a number to get close to the intake runner length you have now. (ex. divide by 10 to get 10.377")
So every 10th bounce will give some degree of ram induction...
Hmmm I gotta go pull my UIM to see what the length is with the HVII...
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I've seen it work. The formula SAE team at Illinois that I spent some time helping had a volumetric efficiency above 1.1, or 10% more air than normally possible in a naturally aspirated engine. It was a Honda F4i engine running above 13000 rpm, IIRC. So the runners didn't have to be so long.
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Originally Posted by willwren
Hector at ADTR designed a variable length runner controlled by manifold vacuum. For the L36.
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So, do you guys think I should try it?
I'm going to dyno my car as soon as I'm finished figuring out what my max timing should be. So I'll be able to have a base dyno to see if I do get gains.
I'll have to:
-put a temp probe in the manifold near the mouth of the intake runner somehow to get a closer approximation for the speed of sound
-measure the current length of the intake path with the HVII to see where I stand
-find out the closest numer for (ideal length) / # to get a length to work
-figure out what rpm I should have it work
-find longer bolts for the UIM
-figure out what to use for a spacer between the HVII and the LIM
~~~~Some things come to mind:stock UIM gaskets, another milled HVII, custom HVII
-I'll have to cut the fuel rail, flare it and connect it with fittings or high pressure fuel hose
-The rear p/* corner of the UIM is a tight squeeze already under the older alternator style I have. I could probably drill out the mouting holes in the alt or alt bracket to make it clear.
-hood clearance?
-find a longer EGR tube
It dosen't seem too impossible and depending on the spacer cost, it may not be that expensive.
Any thoughts, suggestions, something I missed?
I'm going to dyno my car as soon as I'm finished figuring out what my max timing should be. So I'll be able to have a base dyno to see if I do get gains.
I'll have to:
-put a temp probe in the manifold near the mouth of the intake runner somehow to get a closer approximation for the speed of sound
-measure the current length of the intake path with the HVII to see where I stand
-find out the closest numer for (ideal length) / # to get a length to work
-figure out what rpm I should have it work
-find longer bolts for the UIM
-figure out what to use for a spacer between the HVII and the LIM
~~~~Some things come to mind:stock UIM gaskets, another milled HVII, custom HVII
-I'll have to cut the fuel rail, flare it and connect it with fittings or high pressure fuel hose
-The rear p/* corner of the UIM is a tight squeeze already under the older alternator style I have. I could probably drill out the mouting holes in the alt or alt bracket to make it clear.
-hood clearance?
-find a longer EGR tube
It dosen't seem too impossible and depending on the spacer cost, it may not be that expensive.
Any thoughts, suggestions, something I missed?
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Originally Posted by jwikoff99
Maybe the needed length was taken in to account when they made the insert?
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