Doesn't the supercharger really make the air turbulent with the spinning rotors in it? Or does the turbulent air in the intake just slow down the air enough that the motor can't get enough?

No, the spinning rotors add pressure to the air which creates performance improving air densinty (probably cancels out any negative effect of turbulent air).

The turbulent air in the intake manifold plays tricks with the MAF sensor.

TECHINFO has some good info on this stuff.

Was watching tv the other night and saw this tornado thingy. Supposed to spin the air making better mixture. Wouldn't the supercharger basically undo anything this thing does?

A while back I was also wondering bout that thing. I found some info on it:

Its a piece. :?

Supah Charger or NA that thing is still bad, it causes problems with the MAF sensor and decreases HP. My local news tested it. At 1st they got a slight increase in gas milage, but a day later they got worse gas milage than stock.

"Any device that is inserted into the intake in order to create a 'vortex' effect will negatively affect performance due to the demands of the MAF sensor. These devices may work fine in a TBI or Carburated intake, but have no benefit, and will probably degrade performance on any 87-03 Bonneville intake. Don't waste your money." (TECHINFO)

In general, if the Tornado thing really worked magic on your engine, then every auto company would already have it in their cars.

The open cone with less turbulent air will improve performance but the warmer charge will negate the benefit.
You need a cold air charge.
1% hp loss for every 10 deg F rise in inlet temp.
Check out your under temp. It'* around 140 F...and a lot warmer if those 600 F headers heat up that inlet pipe thru radiant heat.
Even the stock box takes in fender air that is around 80 F.
So that'* a 60 F temp difference which = 6% hp loss. Can you calculate 6% of 200 hp. Yep, that'* right, 12 hp lost. Not to mention the additional loss when your computer retards your timing when the resistance from your IAT sensor detects the hotter charge.

The diameter of your throttle body is about 3 3/4". So the 3" pipe is an actual reduction in size = increased pressure drop due to increased air velocities.

It all adds up.

Bigger and colder is better.

Ty is working on a cold air box set-up for our Bonne'*.
My homemade one is working well for now but it won't stand up in the long run....like my PVC 4" pipe.
This set-up gave me a 1/2 sec improvement in 0-60 time over the stock box with a flat K&N filter.

so basically your sayin' that unless you got a heat resistant finish and a heat shield the pipe and filter are bad for hp :?:

I've Contacted the coating compamy to ceramchrome the pipes. it will add a little to the cost but will still be alot cheaper the the rest out there.. More to follow on when I can get them.

Steve

I'm not saying it'* bad.
You will notice a big improvement when the engine bay is cold, like the first 5 or 10 minutes of driving, or in cold weather.
But on a warm summer day, or after the engine bay is up to temp, that heat will kill most of the benefits.

Some guys will improve things slightly by trying to route cool air towards the open cone with a hose that scoops the cool air in from under the front bumper, but it hardly has much effect compared to the heat radiated from those 600 degree exhaust headers.

2000SilverBullet, did you make your heat shield wrap around the intake at the filter or closer to the TB???

I wrapped it around the intake filter cone. Boxlike similar to the Thrasher box.
It'* flexible enough that the intake tube does not need an accordian rubber connector like the Thrasher unit does. Then I used some foam along the top edge to seal it against the hood. It works great. The trick is using aluminum tape to seal it all up with the tube. I wrapped the tube with the bubble Reflecto insulation also.
The only problem is that you have to perform a lot of maintenance to maintain its integrity. :( ....but it'* cheap and does the trick.