Some Performance Parts
02-06-2007, 04:16 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by LeSabreUltra
Originally Posted by willwren
The closest analogy I can think of is that you shouldn't move from San Francisco to Denver because you'll suffocate from lack of oxygen.
In any event, I'm done with the thermostat issue. It'* not something I'm willing to chance. You all asked for my reasons and I gave them. My standpoint isn't based entirely on theory either, but regardless I'm done with that.
Speaking of my plenum, it'* been almost five years since it'* been replaced. How long do those things last, usually? I don't want to let it get to the point of hydrolocking the engine.
I understand that the L67 does not experience such difficulties, further reason for me to get the swap. I've also heard of people doing a "top end" swap...how difficult would this be if say, the UIM failed and the upper part of the engine was off anyway? Would it be just a direct fit or would other modifications need to be done? There would probably be a necessity for a PCM change and of course the drivebelt configuration. Fuel pump and injectors maybe? Just a thought, it would be easier than a full engine swap.
I understand that the L67 does not experience such difficulties, further reason for me to get the swap. I've also heard of people doing a "top end" swap...how difficult would this be if say, the UIM failed and the upper part of the engine was off anyway? Would it be just a direct fit or would other modifications need to be done? There would probably be a necessity for a PCM change and of course the drivebelt configuration. Fuel pump and injectors maybe? Just a thought, it would be easier than a full engine swap.
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02-06-2007, 04:48 PM
#33
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You're right about that. Quick question though, should I be forced into just getting the engine (no transmission) would my 4T60 fit onto an L67?
You won't suffocate, but suppose an athlete trained all their life down in San Francisco and then went up to run a marathon in Denver? They'd be rather out of breath.
In any event, I'm done with the thermostat issue. It'* not something I'm willing to chance. You all asked for my reasons and I gave them. My standpoint isn't based entirely on theory either, but regardless I'm done with that.
Any thoughts?
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I have seen some last a couple of years while others seem to run 6 or 7 years.. Its hard to tell you when it may or could fail... But 5 years or so is a good time to check or replace it..
Thanks, I thought so! Quick inspection tells me it'* ok, but I just hope it doesn't die suddenly and catastrophically on me. Inspection pics around the manifold:
Later this month when I change the oil I'll check for evidence of coolant in it. Hopefully I don't find any, but when it does fail I hope I have plenty of advance warning.
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
Originally Posted by LeSabreUltra
Originally Posted by willwren
The closest analogy I can think of is that you shouldn't move from San Francisco to Denver because you'll suffocate from lack of oxygen.
In any event, I'm done with the thermostat issue. It'* not something I'm willing to chance. You all asked for my reasons and I gave them. My standpoint isn't based entirely on theory either, but regardless I'm done with that.
Speaking of my plenum, it'* been almost five years since it'* been replaced. How long do those things last, usually? I don't want to let it get to the point of hydrolocking the engine.
I understand that the L67 does not experience such difficulties, further reason for me to get the swap. I've also heard of people doing a "top end" swap...how difficult would this be if say, the UIM failed and the upper part of the engine was off anyway? Would it be just a direct fit or would other modifications need to be done? There would probably be a necessity for a PCM change and of course the drivebelt configuration. Fuel pump and injectors maybe? Just a thought, it would be easier than a full engine swap.
I understand that the L67 does not experience such difficulties, further reason for me to get the swap. I've also heard of people doing a "top end" swap...how difficult would this be if say, the UIM failed and the upper part of the engine was off anyway? Would it be just a direct fit or would other modifications need to be done? There would probably be a necessity for a PCM change and of course the drivebelt configuration. Fuel pump and injectors maybe? Just a thought, it would be easier than a full engine swap.
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Later this month when I change the oil I'll check for evidence of coolant in it. Hopefully I don't find any, but when it does fail I hope I have plenty of advance warning.
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02-06-2007, 05:17 PM
#34
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When your UIM goes, you won't see any leaks to the outside. It all goes into the intake and cylinders.
You can run a S2 L67 with a 4T60 if you use the 1996 PCM. You need the axles too, and a different gear ratio. In other words, you don't want your trans.
You want a 4T60E(HD) with a 2.97 gear ratio.
You can run a S2 L67 with a 4T60 if you use the 1996 PCM. You need the axles too, and a different gear ratio. In other words, you don't want your trans.
You want a 4T60E(HD) with a 2.97 gear ratio.
02-06-2007, 06:43 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by willwren
When your UIM goes, you won't see any leaks to the outside. It all goes into the intake and cylinders.
You can run a S2 L67 with a 4T60 if you use the 1996 PCM. You need the axles too, and a different gear ratio. In other words, you don't want your trans.
You want a 4T60E(HD) with a 2.97 gear ratio.
You can run a S2 L67 with a 4T60 if you use the 1996 PCM. You need the axles too, and a different gear ratio. In other words, you don't want your trans.
You want a 4T60E(HD) with a 2.97 gear ratio.
Ah well, I'll watch for coolant/oil mixes and levels. The L67 will have to wait...
I understand that there is an aftermarket UIM unit that will permanently fix the problems that these cars experience? Will this manifold reduce performance any?
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02-07-2007, 02:54 PM
#37
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Addition with a question:
Well, upon suggestion I removed aluminum foil and I also relocated my sensor and found a better coupling for my intake.
Pics:
I used one of the two provided holes in the intake pipe for the sensor...perfect fit. I used RTF sealant and electrical tape to seal it in place. Despite it'* precarious appearance, it'* actually quite sturdy.
The new coupling.
EDIT: I removed an unecessary coupling and also moved the filter around to make more room for a heat shield.
Any ideas on how I should build and what to use for a heat shield?
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Well, upon suggestion I removed aluminum foil and I also relocated my sensor and found a better coupling for my intake.
Pics:
I used one of the two provided holes in the intake pipe for the sensor...perfect fit. I used RTF sealant and electrical tape to seal it in place. Despite it'* precarious appearance, it'* actually quite sturdy.
The new coupling.
EDIT: I removed an unecessary coupling and also moved the filter around to make more room for a heat shield.
Any ideas on how I should build and what to use for a heat shield?
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