Some Performance Parts
02-06-2007, 01:02 PM
#21
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The benefits far outweigh your fears. I've seen no evidence of any of your concerns on any of the 7000+ cars on this Forum. Not even a hint of any issues.
Want to know the real experience of the Forum? Start a poll in General Chat. We've been running these things for years.
I think it would be safe to say that you're perhaps our one and only dissenting member on the 180° thermostat issue. And that would be based on real-world application and experience. Not theory.
Your car, your choice.
Want to know the real experience of the Forum? Start a poll in General Chat. We've been running these things for years.
I think it would be safe to say that you're perhaps our one and only dissenting member on the 180° thermostat issue. And that would be based on real-world application and experience. Not theory.
Your car, your choice.
02-06-2007, 01:26 PM
#22
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While your concerns are valid they are too "old school" for your OBDII engine.
If your cooling system had the capacity and if you put in a low enough thermostat you could keep the PCM in warm up mode. (this is what causes it to run rich)
However, this is a rather extream condition and it will set a check engine light.
If your cooling system had the capacity and if you put in a low enough thermostat you could keep the PCM in warm up mode. (this is what causes it to run rich)
However, this is a rather extream condition and it will set a check engine light.
02-06-2007, 02:19 PM
#24
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I did the intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets at roughly 140ish K.... I bought the car as a former rental.. I went with the 180 T stat and have run it the entire time I have owned the car... This is what the inside of my motor looked like when I pulled the lower intake..
Here is the head.... Not bad for the Mileage, years and abuse..
Even with the 180 T-Stat, I pulled down 33 Mpg in 35-45F weather with 60-80 Rpms of trans slip between the input and output shaft...
This car has always burned 3/4 of a quart in 3000 miles... Did it when I bought it and still does it now
Thats what the bottom of the lower looked like when I yanked it
At 154k I'll keep the 180F... By the time I ever see 200k I will most like rebuild anyhow
But yes I will also agree to disagree
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Here is the head.... Not bad for the Mileage, years and abuse..
Even with the 180 T-Stat, I pulled down 33 Mpg in 35-45F weather with 60-80 Rpms of trans slip between the input and output shaft...
This car has always burned 3/4 of a quart in 3000 miles... Did it when I bought it and still does it now
Thats what the bottom of the lower looked like when I yanked it
At 154k I'll keep the 180F... By the time I ever see 200k I will most like rebuild anyhow
But yes I will also agree to disagree
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02-06-2007, 03:27 PM
#26
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Yeah 3800'* aren't known for building sludge or beating the life out of the oil... I have seen a couple that looked like they never had an oil change.... But they are few and far between..
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02-06-2007, 03:46 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by willwren
The closest analogy I can think of is that you shouldn't move from San Francisco to Denver because you'll suffocate from lack of oxygen.
In any event, I'm done with the thermostat issue. It'* not something I'm willing to chance. You all asked for my reasons and I gave them. My standpoint isn't based entirely on theory either, but regardless I'm done with that.
Speaking of my plenum, it'* been almost five years since it'* been replaced. How long do those things last, usually? I don't want to let it get to the point of hydrolocking the engine.
I understand that the L67 does not experience such difficulties, further reason for me to get the swap. I've also heard of people doing a "top end" swap...how difficult would this be if say, the UIM failed and the upper part of the engine was off anyway? Would it be just a direct fit or would other modifications need to be done? There would probably be a necessity for a PCM change and of course the drivebelt configuration. Fuel pump and injectors maybe? Just a thought, it would be easier than a full engine swap.
I understand that the L67 does not experience such difficulties, further reason for me to get the swap. I've also heard of people doing a "top end" swap...how difficult would this be if say, the UIM failed and the upper part of the engine was off anyway? Would it be just a direct fit or would other modifications need to be done? There would probably be a necessity for a PCM change and of course the drivebelt configuration. Fuel pump and injectors maybe? Just a thought, it would be easier than a full engine swap.
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02-06-2007, 03:51 PM
#28
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Only one peron who posts on this forum has sucessfully done a top-end swap. Do some research on ClubGp for more information as they have many Top-end swap cars.
or you can adapt this kit.
http://www.wbodystore.com/grandprix/...kit-p-157.html
or you can adapt this kit.
http://www.wbodystore.com/grandprix/...kit-p-157.html
02-06-2007, 03:59 PM
#29
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Thanks for the information! From the looks of things though, it may actually be cheaper just to do an engine swap.
Maybe this summer....
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Maybe this summer....
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02-06-2007, 04:03 PM
#30
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The engine swap is the most often chosen avenue on BC, by far. It'* not too bad for an experienced person. Plus you get the added benefit of having the HD transmission along with the L67, if you go with a complete swap from a donor car.