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shifter for 88 sse

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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 10:29 AM
  #21  
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IF that'* what they're talking about, that'* a pretty big bump in stall for your 88. I don't think there'* a reason to bump it at all. What have you done to add power or shift your hp/tq curves to a higher rpm?
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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 11:35 AM
  #22  
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standard stuff for an 88, I plan on adding nos later and some time at the strip so I figured it wouldn't be a bad idea while they were rebuilding the tranny already.
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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 11:39 AM
  #23  
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I don't see anything in your sig that would dictate a stall change.

And you won't be injecting nitrous at the launch off the line. So why are they suggesting a stall change?
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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 01:26 PM
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They really didn't suggest the stall change, they suggested a HD torque conv. because I told them what I wanted to do with the car. Run at the strip some and daily driving. The stall settings just came with the HD converter. We figured it couldn't hurt.
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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 01:50 PM
  #25  
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Changing the stall rating on the wrong car at the wrong time CAN be bad. My stall was only raised 200-250 on the Zilla, and I had good reason to be ABLE to go higher. I kept stall stock on my SLE/SC.

I suggest you stay stock. Too high of a stall can create excess heat and also create drivablility issues.
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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 05:24 PM
  #26  
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Contacted the guys at transmissioncenter.net and they assured me that other than at the strip that there shouldn't be any excess heat frm the converter. Anytime that you are dragging or driving excessively hard you will have more heat, but since I have an external tranny cooler and have it plumbed correctly, 1st thru the radiator, then the tranny cooler, and then back to the tranny, that any excess heat would be handled by the extra cooler. He also suggested a temp guage for the tranny before I started dragging.
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Old Sep 13, 2007 | 05:37 PM
  #27  
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You should have bypassed the radiator entirely.
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 01:52 AM
  #28  
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So I should leave it where it is? HIs logic was that the radiator would cool the fluid down 1st and then the cooler would cool it even more. R u saying that it is not worth the new plumbing?
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 07:53 AM
  #29  
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More plumbing is more potential leak points.

In addition, the core in the radiator isn't a core. And it does more heating of the fluid than cooling. That 'core' is a pipe within a pipe, with very close tolerance between them. The trans fluid flows BETWEEEN the two pipes. High mileage transmissions or those that have had a failure pack that small cavity with debris, and restrict flow. This can starve your trans for fluid.

It'* good practice to bypass it entirely and install a thermostatically controlled (viscosity controlled) cooler in it'* place.
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Old Sep 14, 2007 | 07:17 PM
  #30  
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Think I'll install a fan and temp guage, just for good measure.
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