http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...2691&start=140

Have you considered modifying your existing fuel rail? Or even having a new one made up? The mounts aren't terribly complicated when i was looking at my spare L67 rail. Maybe use some custom tubing and AN fittings?

I core that Ryan and I were working on is 2.5" thick. One reason we did it 2.5" was because the bar and plate core we use is 2 3/4" thick and because of alt. bracket. With a core that thick you can have the alt. bracket bolt right into the core itself instead of the M62. The only problem with having a core that thick is that you will need custom injector spacers and custom fuel log because the injectors are angled in two ways. (to get injector spacers to work you will need a custom fuel log) As this is not rocket science and just fabrication, it still takes a lot of time and money. I have already spent $600 on a Bonne, $60 x2 on 2 2 3/4" IC core, $400 on a custom heat exchanger, $170 on a high flow pump, and countless hours measuring and working on AutoCAD.

We have now put the 2.5" core on hold and have been working on a 1" core, hoping to complete this one before IDD. This core will not need any modifications to the fuel setup other then cutting the supply / return lines going over the M62 to the front fuel log and flange the ends for braided lines. With the 1" IC core we are going to be in the range of a 80*-90* drop in temp compared to the 2.5" core that was going to be around 150* drop. If we have success with the 1" core we will prob. not even finish the 2.5" core. With that much work to get a 2.5" IC core for M62, we might as well make it to mount a M90 seeing that it will be the same amount of work.

id shoot for the 1" being the 2.5" would require hood modification to clear....my 1.5" will barely clear as it is, and I may have to live w/o my beloved SC cover.

A 1" core should be no problem, just trying to get it all together before IDD is going to be the hard part. With it that size it will not be a full blown IC but it will have a temp drop close to a INTENSE IC. It should let you drop .1"-.2" pulley size from your setup now and have 0 KR.

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This concerns me. You're going to try to make an intercooler with those tools? First of all, I hope it'* not a traditional bench grinder, as you can't use that for aluminum without seriously injuring yourself, and I can't think of anything on the IC plate that would need to be ground..........

I really want to see you get this done, but I don't see a bandsaw and a drillpress getting you to your end result on a precision plate that can have no leaks. I'd rather not see you fail.

You must take into account precise bolt and pin locations, including calculating diagonals, and insure you don't have any vacuum or boost leaks, not to mention PCV.

My advice is to ditch the bandsaw idea entirely (this is DAMN hard on 1.5" plate unless you bought a 10hp bandsaw for $2k), make sure you bought FLAT TOOLING plate, create a CAD file, and get it done by a shop.

There are 10 bolt or pin holes that must be absolutely precise to the locations on the blower and LIM, and you can't miss by .1" on the location and size of the outlet or bypass, nor even the PCV.

I'm not busting on you, but I don't want to see you blow alot of money for nothing. This isn't a soapbox....BUT, I've been doing design and fab work for a LONG damn time. And I wouldn't even consider having nightmares about attempting this with a bandsaw. It'* really out of the realm of possibilities.

O.K. Where to start?
First I am not going to tell you not to do this; just step back and really think out ALL of the details first.

Any custom work like this is going to be very expensive, even if you do most of the work yourself.

Find an IC core that is designed to be an IC core. The one you have will be a huge restriction.

Take the machine tools back and invest the money in a machine shop class at your local community college, most have open shop days for graduates. This would give you affordable access to machine tools capable of doing the job and a better understanding of what is involved.

I could go on but these are the biggest points to think about.

Good luck and props for having the guts to try.

The above advice comes from a person well-versed in fab and machine work, as well as design. Not to mention his wealth of experience in forced induction (note the cute little M45 on his engine), and intercooling.

This project is much bigger than a bandsaw and drillpress. It'* going to be expensive, but that may not be a concern for the guy that wants one at any cost. Affordable for most Series 1 guys? Probably not. But maybe for a couple.

Possible in the manner planned? Not likely, but POSSIBLE with ALOT more hard work than is necessary. Step back from the project for a bit, and re-think your attack plan.

We'd like to see you succeed, not get frustrated. In fact, pm or email me your dimensions for the plate and let me check them against mine (and I'll be checking mine again very soon.....whole top end is coming off before the trans goes in).

what dimensions should I PM you? and if I have to do this all on my own with no help from anyone else then I will, as I pretty much have from the start anyway. I know this will be difficult and I know I may screw the first one up and have to try again. There is a pretty big difference between a scroll saw and a band saw as you state I bought. A scrollsaw makes cuts in a very precise manner, as opposed to a bandsaw taking more room for a turn. I think I can do this and anything that I can to make it become a reality will have to happen. I dont care who it is telling me not to. I realize this is an all new mod for you guys and thats why im doing it to my own car using my own money and risking my own life and limb (being sarcastic here) But I AM DOING IT!!! If I have to talk to a machine shop 5 states away after screwing up the first one, then I still have tools that ive been wanting/needing for other work around the house anyways...BTW the grinder may come in handy when making little brackets and such. Beside that wire wheels are infinatley helpfull with cleaning threads on bolts and such.

To the best of my knowledge, I've never seen a scrollsaw capable of working aluminum thicker than 1/8". Scrollsaws are strictly a woodworking tool.

Send me the dimensions of the hole patterns on your plate to match the SC and LIM so I can double check them.

By visual check, your core is about 50% restrictive. I'd look for another. You're very likely to lose power with that one, rather than gain.