I was looking at the factory service manual for the PCM and ABS computer (EBCM/EBCTM) and saw something interesting. There are two dedicated wires between the PCM and ABS computer that are independent of the serial data bus -- one wire is "requested torque" form the PCM to the ABS comp., and the other wire is "actual torque", sent from the ABS comp back to the PCM. If I wire a switch in to short these together when the switch is acitivated, the computer will never sense wheel spin, and will never activate torque reduction PCM based traction control. This will be a lot neater of an install than routing wires to both wheel sensors, and it WON'T disable ABS. Hell you could leave the traction control on, which would allow the ABS pump to pulsate the brakes for low speed traction control, but the torque reduction routine would be effectively inactive.

try checking a haynes repair manual i know they usaly have alot of wiring diagrams in the back

Ive been thinking about doing a WSS kill switch for the EvilRegal as those morse code black marks get annoying! For the Buick you dont have the choice to jack up the back as there is no ELC but im still wondering what killing the E brake will do for you?

BTW for whoever asked about applied braking vs. PCM retarding on the OBD 1.5 it is applyed braking only and when TC if off its OFF! One of the good things about a SER1 L67......I think when they started the SER2 L67 in 96 it was making too much power for the tranny to hold (heck those trannys didnt hold up well in the 92-95) and since they didnt really upgrade the tranny till 97 (i think) they had to kill the power going there some way or another, so they took the cheap annoying way out and put in an electronanny, to keep trans warrany claims down, now if they wouda just designed the car around the 4T80E then we wouldnt have problems!

It seems like I might have to replace my OEM struts with non CCR... blah.

If that is the case, could the "Performance Ride" button be made to set the car into "drag mode" and the "Touring Ride" button be made to switch the car back?

Any thoughts... esp from those who have worked on those buttons before?
(BonneMeMN I'm looking at you)

I was thinking of the same exact thing for my 04 GXP, do you think it will work? I just want a button to disable the WSS, how hard would that be to install and do you know how to do it?
Scott

I don't actually know how the switch works. But cutting a WSS wire, splicing in enough to run to the button and back would do the trick, right? As long as the switch is on/off. Or does the switch ground? I don't know. An ohmmeter and a handy switch would answer the question.

Would putting that much wire in there somehow cause a voltage drop or make the WSS reading messed up when it was on?

I would think you would want to only put as much wire in there to just get into the engine bay to a small low current relay. Better yet, if you could find those wires under the hood somewhere and put a relay in there, you wouldn't have to worry about any losses. You should be able to get the signal wires from all 4 WSS at the PCM and put your relays right there close by. They wouldn't be anything large because they aren't handling a huge amount of current or voltage (what are they like +5 volt signal lines?

A 12 gauge wire long enough would be, I don't know, 10 ohm. Just guessing. It depends on the overall resistance of the circuit if that much additional resistance would even matter.

If I were to go back through and read all of the posts this might already have been answered...

How many wires are there to the WSS? I would think there would be 3, ground, reference(power), and sense. It'* probably just 2 wires though, reference and sense... Which one are you planning on interupting?

How about the ground?