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Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 09-07-2007, 01:21 PM   #31
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Cams from a Series II or III will not work. The valve lobe order is different.

And you're not a pain yet. I've commited about the worst cardinal sin there is, Gen 3 M62 and TB, 92 MAF, 2.25" pulley, and no adjustment to the fuel or MAF signal. And noone ever called me a pain. I'm lucky my engine made it another 90k miles.
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Old 09-07-2007, 01:54 PM   #32
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how musch boost did u make with the 2.25" pulley
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Old 09-07-2007, 02:09 PM   #33
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Boost is relative. Depends on alot of factors. I suggest you add an aftermarket boost gauge. Instructions are in Techinfo. You can install it in one of your round dash/door vents.

How on earth did you find a Gen1 supercharger on a 95 L67? I've never even SEEN a Gen1 personally. You should have a Gen3 from the factory, and if it is, it can be assumed, as all 94/95 L67'* got the Gen3 M62.

I mentioned custom grind for the specific reason that you won't find a DOMESTIC cam for your car without going to Crow.
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Old 09-07-2007, 02:12 PM   #34
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Since this is about Performance, let'* look at your sig:

Quote:
95 riviera gen1 SC 2.55" pulley cold air intake, 18" wheels with nitto NT555 tires, flowmasters with no resinator or cat.

Future mods: camshaft,ported heads/intake/SC, 2.3" pulley,pcm, custome headers with hi-flow cat
You have a Gen3 Eaton M62 just like all 94/95 L67'* unless someone did something freaky to your car.

Is your intake truly a 'cold air' intake? Let'* look at your design and heat shield.

18" wheels are the wrong thing for a car you want performance out of.

No cat? Not only is that illegal, it'* also costing you low-end torque. Put a hi-flow cat in.

Custom headers? That'* going to cost you dearly, and probably won't gain you much. Our Series 1 manifolds are a really good free-flowing design.
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Old 09-07-2007, 02:15 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
18" wheels are the wrong thing for a car you want performance out of.

.
why?

Unless the total height of the tires are taller, its not going to change anything.

unless you get really heavy wheel.
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Old 09-07-2007, 02:28 PM   #36
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1. 18" wheels are typically heavier than 16'*. This hurts you in accelleration and braking.

2. 18" wheels reduce the sidewall height which is typically bad for cornering. A common misconception is that shorter sidewalls are better for handling. This comes from the import tuner market. It is not true.
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Old 09-07-2007, 02:32 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95riviera
how musch boost did u make with the 2.25" pulley
More than 10, probably 13ish. But the PCM didn't like it and would frequently dump. So I bypassed the BCS which was even dumber for a while. I didn't do it right for a while.
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Old 09-07-2007, 02:56 PM   #38
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i have an after market boost gauge. and it is a gen3 sc. my intake pipe is aluminum and iremoved the factory air box and put a intake cone on the pipe where the factory air box was located
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Old 09-07-2007, 03:03 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
1. 18" wheels are typically heavier than 16'*. This hurts you in accelleration and braking.

2. 18" wheels reduce the sidewall height which is typically bad for cornering. A common misconception is that shorter sidewalls are better for handling. This comes from the import tuner market. It is not true.
Bigger wheel = less rubber... = sometimes same weight or less then stock wheels.

If smaller side walls are so bad for corners.. go look at every Over seas High end performance car.. all have 18" + wheels and very little side wall...


*edit*
i am not a fan of 18+ size wheel because i dont like the ride and look of Small side walls. i dont want to feel a tiny rock if it hit it lol
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Old 09-07-2007, 03:15 PM   #40
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Metal is much denser than rubber, typically. Rotational inertia can really do a number on acceleration.
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