I am swapping the l67 engine in my 97 SSEi. I have everything disconnected but the 2 bolts that hold the rear exhaust manifold to the down pipe. I have tried lots of liquid wrench and different andles for top and underneath with no luck. I can't get a sawzall in there and currently have no access to a torch. Will a plumbing hand torch used for soldering copper house pipe do any good??? Need help! Thanks

WD-40 helps, along with some compounds to loosen up rusted bolts...


But the torch may help as well. If nothign else get some HUGE cheater bars, and/or hammers. Hit it a bunch to knock it loose. Make sure you have proper protection on, as exhaust can be one of the nastiest things to work on.

I would do the torch, as cheater bars can rip it in the hole itself, and the you would need to tap it, it would make a big old mess.

When I had my manifolds pulled off, a torch was needed.

You could also try a Dremel or die grinder and a cutoff wheel.

Yes heat heat HEAT. It'* the best thing for exhaust. Even if u don't have a torch, go out to menards and buy yourself a little tank of propane and a bernz-o-matic head for it. It'll take a while to heat it but it'* more portable and easier to use by yourself.

USE HEAT.

Soak with some GOOD rust penetrant. Heat 'er up. Spray more pentrant on it (the heat has expanded everything, so the penetrant will soak even deeper). Heat it more! Did I mention that heat is your friend whenever you're dealing with seized bolts? Once she'* good and hot, unthread bolts from headers. Rinse, repeat.