Joel I have a stock cam. Mainly rockers, springs, rods, headers, 3.2 pulley, INTENSE standard PCM.

It appears my trims are fine at idle, even with INTENSE PCM. I need suggestions of where prone areas of a vacuum leak are.

Joel thanks for finding the site, I've been to busy to find you.
I look forward to getting some scans done on Friday.

Rogue,

That seems about right. My IAC counts at idle when engine is warm is about 55.

Kyles IAC counts at idle were 15 once the car was warmed up.

Thanks!

Joel

Hey Kyle,

I believe best way to find a leak is to spray around your areas where you think you might have a leak with brake cleaner, if the idle surges when sprayed upon you've found your leak. We can do this on Friday if you'd like...

I can almost guarantee once we find your leak, your L-Trims will not peg like they do. You are throwing the P171 code because your L-trims are pegging at +16.38%.

The reason why I told you about this, is that the L-trims do play apart in your WOT runs. The computer uses your WOT run off your built-in fuel curves in the PCM, but if your L-Trims are positive, the computer will take the last known value or the avg number of your L-Trims and compensate your built-in fuel curves based on this. Getting your L-trims as close to +/- 5% WILL make a differnce!

Thanks!

Joel

Where does the IAC get its data from on the engine? I ask because I have a hunch the EGR pipe flange is not flush with the header pipe.

Also, is it safe to use brake cleaner? Should I use less harmful stuff like throttle body cleaner?

The IAC itself is in the throttle body. 0-20 counts is considered too low and probably a leak somewhere. If your getting 15 as Joel stated then you definately should be looking for a leak. I would use carb and choke cleaner to spray around the egr and see if you can find it.

I'll pick up some STP TB cleaner tomarrow and spray around the the EGR and vacuum lines on the TB.

Ok now this is getting strange.

CEL was on to and from work, but on the way home I picked up a 10mm gearwrench to reach the EGR bolt from above. I was just checking out if the wrench would work and losened the EGR bolt a little, then tightened it up slightly. Later I went to class and the light was off, even on the way back home from classes.

I didn't do much to the EGR flange, just a matter of losen...then tighten....think this is the cause for my issues? I'm thinking the CEL might come back on soon enough.