After being the victim of an upper intake failure followed by a rod bearing failure 70 miles later, my bonnie is finally on the road again. And what a difference!!! I have spent the last 3 weeks rebuilding the motor. The block, lower intake, and heads were hot tanked. The crank got reground. The rods and heads were both reconditioned. The pistons, rings, all bearings and bushings, freeze plugs, water pump, oil pump, timing set, and upper intake (Doorman) were all replaced. As well as a drilled 180 t-stat. Felpro head gaskets were used as well as GM aluminum LIM gaskets.

Now for the performance part. The heads and LIM were both gasket match ported and polished. I did some modifications to the runners in the UIM. We built a from header with 1.5" runners into a 2" pipe so that it matches the size of the rear manifold. I removed the MAF screen. Gutted the airbox as well as opened up the area behind the headlight. Removed the AC compressor and made a custom bracket and pully for it. Using a 9060980 Gatorback belt. And I blocked the EGR and ran it to the airbox to draw cold air. Im not sure if that was a good idea or not though? I also painted the engine dark Ford blue. The valve covers, engien cover, and various brackets were painted with a mixture of the blue Metal Speck paint and Black Textured Metallic paint from Duplicolor. The combination of the 2 colors turned out really nice. I have some pictures on my phone that I will try and figure out how to transfer and post.

After fighting one thing after another, The car finally fired up today. The results left me with a BIG smile This thing pulls real hard at 4000 RPM+. I can fell a big increase in midrange horsepower. Its feels like I lost some low end which is probably due to my UIM mod. I am going to try and find a used stock runner to through back in and maybe do some for messing around with it. My buddy has a Regal GS with a K&N. We are going to line them up to get a base line as far as estimating the horsepower and performace increase compared to the Regal which ran a 15.1 on a 100*F day with the headlight out.

have a couple of questions for you N/A guys. I plan for my next 2 mods do get the L67 coils and have the PCM programed. Who do you recommend for the PCM. I was leaning toward Intense, but I wanted some different opinions. I have plans for more in the future. Some BIG plans

If you're running a Series II engine, I guarantee you Intense will probably be your best bet. Just about anybody here can back that one up.

I do have the series 2 engine. I was also considering removing the cat and running a resonator in its place to allow more flow.

Do NOT remove the cat.

1. It'* a federal law that you have one, regardless of whether or not your state or county performs emissions tests.

2. Anyone here that turns you in can get a $250 reward for doing so.

3. It'* not a restriction. Put a high-flow cat on the car instead.

4. Keep the stock resonator. It'* not a restriction either.

You'll need to flow ALOT more through that L36 before exhaust components from the cat back to the tips will do you any good. Try adding more flow first.

Should I got with a different throttle body then? Is there something that will bolt up to the L36 intake? Or do I have to custom fab an adapter plate and linkage? What about the sensors? Any other way I can improve flow?

What do you guys run for performance mufflers? I was thinking about a Flowmaster 80. I dont want it to loud though. I had a Flowmaster on my Blazer and it sounded good, but got annoying after awhile. I want a deep throaty sound thats not overly loud.

Magnaflow is mellower than Flowmaster.

Improve flow by increasing rocker arm ratio or a cam. Improving flow is alot different than allowing flow. All you've done so far is allow more. Now CREATE more. An engine is simply an air pump. The more you flow, the more power you get.

do you have pict of youre engine and that header you made like to see that

I have lots of pictures, but they are on my phone. Im not sure how to transfer them though

Maybe for an L67..
For an L36, ZZP has better cams and rocker ratios. ER rockers have the best ratio when used with your stock cam.
If you would like to cam and keep your stock gear ratio and converter the GT1 cam'* powerband will work best.
You can port a L67 TB to work on an L36 but you will need some way to tune since the area around the MAF is larger. Search my name or agrazela'* for moded L67 TBs.
I'm also interested in what your front manifold looks like.
Can your phone e-mail? Email the pics to yourself download them then host them if you can.

Edit:
Also, if your going to block the EGR, block it completely. The air your drawing in instead of exhaust gas in un-metered. This isn't giving you a gain and could be a potential problem.

Keep an eye on your fuel trims and O2'* with that MAF screen removed. I found when running w/o one I exceeded the fuel trim allowances. The screen ensures that the maf has a consistent reading. W/o it..you have turbulant air and all may not be read by the sensor.