PEM Questions
#1
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PEM Questions
i was thinking about getting pem'* this summer to help with KR for when i swap pulleys. how easy is the installation, pretty much just bolt on? At hulkspeed for the aluminum ceramic caoted PEM'* it'* 225 plus the $75 core? what kind of gains am i looking at with them? and if i got the aluminum coated ones, i'm guessing those are coated inside and out?
#2
Senior Member
True Car Nut
I haven't done it yet, but my understanding is that the front is not too bad to do, but the back is a bit of a pain. Others who have done it will speak up, I'm sure.
Get the ceramic coated ones. There'* a reduction in retained heat using them.
Re: the core charge, I would guess they would return that to you once you send them a good set of manifolds in return. You'll have to contact them and verify to make sure.
Get the ceramic coated ones. There'* a reduction in retained heat using them.
Re: the core charge, I would guess they would return that to you once you send them a good set of manifolds in return. You'll have to contact them and verify to make sure.
#3
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Front is a walk in the park as is the cross over.
Rear....If the downpipe to manifold bolts don't fight, it'* not bad. The EGR 10mm is a little pain, I used a swivel 10mm socket and it went good. Otherwise. it'* not bad.
Rear: I removed the bracket the O2/fuel lines connect to, and working almost 100% from the driverside, you can get at all the bolts pretty well. EGR as mentioned is a little time consuming. If possible remove the two studs that guide the manifold on the block. Being sandwiched between the downpipe and engine is not a problem w/o the studs. A little pain with them in. Then rotate the passenger side end of the manifold up and with a little wiggling pull it out the top of the engine bay
Rear....If the downpipe to manifold bolts don't fight, it'* not bad. The EGR 10mm is a little pain, I used a swivel 10mm socket and it went good. Otherwise. it'* not bad.
Rear: I removed the bracket the O2/fuel lines connect to, and working almost 100% from the driverside, you can get at all the bolts pretty well. EGR as mentioned is a little time consuming. If possible remove the two studs that guide the manifold on the block. Being sandwiched between the downpipe and engine is not a problem w/o the studs. A little pain with them in. Then rotate the passenger side end of the manifold up and with a little wiggling pull it out the top of the engine bay
#4
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cool. so it is 225 plus the core charge or does that include the core charge? and any idea what kind of gains i would be looking at from doing this?
#5
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Gains really depend upon how much KR you have/eliminate and other mods.
I personally didn't feel a huge increase in power. My car responded by pulling stronger all the time and much more consistently. All my changes were noticed in changing the front (aka only restriction) manifold.
I personally didn't feel a huge increase in power. My car responded by pulling stronger all the time and much more consistently. All my changes were noticed in changing the front (aka only restriction) manifold.
#7
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
To me, yes it was.
I never had plans to go this far, however the front manifold is such a restriction you ask yourself how an engineer could do that to a motor.
When your car is good and cold...reach your hand down and feel the underside of the manfold. It'* really quite silly.
I never had plans to go this far, however the front manifold is such a restriction you ask yourself how an engineer could do that to a motor.
When your car is good and cold...reach your hand down and feel the underside of the manfold. It'* really quite silly.
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