Damn skippy, shes a beaut, I wonder why I like older women...lol

My car wouldn't shift when it was supposed to a while back, and I found out that the tranny fluid was leaking out. I guess all those airborne adventures don't pay off!

what ratios do the 4t65E-HD trannies have? Both my riv and the 2000 SSEi run at 1,400 RPM @ 55 MPH, and 1,850 RPM @ 70MPH..

would doing all these 0-60 runs at an altitude of 5500 feet make a difference in why I have such a lousy time. I know everyone else is testing at under 10 seconds but everyone else lives where it'* flat and I live where there'* lots of mountains. Nice and high and no humidty or anything else.

I live at sea level, and I have yet to test, hmmm, I guess its time, I would assume the O2 content of the air would affect combustion and thusly affect performance. I'm confident I could do less then 9...in a good solid run

OK....before I go ahead and order the "full meal deal" listed below, is there anything I can check while in my driveway :?: ie simple stuff

-Full Meal Deal is as follows-

Inspect PCV Valve
Inspect Exhaust System & heat shields for leaks, damage or lose parts
Replace air cleaner & PCV filter
Inspect Choke and Hose (if equipped)
Inspect EGR system
Replace Spark Plugs (6 cylinder), inspect wires and connectors
-if equipped with Platinum plugs, may just need cleaning and gapping
Check Engine Timing, Scan system for trouble codes
Replace engine coolant, tighten hoses & connections
Inspect Fuel Tank, cap and lines
Clean and inspect front disc brake system,
Clean and inspect rear brake system
Inspect parking brake for damage and operation. Adjust if needed
*Service Auto Transmission/Transaxle. Replace Fluid, Pan Gasket



Failing this to solve my 0-60 issue, another possibility is the tranny...
How can I check to see if the tranny (and/or clutch) is good or gone :?:
If the transmission is gone/failing, what would be a good replacement :?:
(and any idea of cost ?)


Also, 89BonnieSE89, you said I had the newer designed "metal tensioner", how can I ensure that I have this :?: (visual inspection ?)


You guys also mentioned a "scantool" and gear ratios.... I trust the scantool is something only the dealership has... ... but how can I check my gear ratios to ensure they are correct :?: Dealership again? What exactly do I have them check for :?:


Sorry about the vast # of questions, I think there'* more then 1/2 a dozen in this post alone, but I'm really eager to get my 0-60 time to something under the 9 or 10 second mark. Sub 8 would be ideal

This is paraphrased from what Custom88 had explained to me. Apparently, pre-90 all 3800'* used a rubber tensioner to keep the timing chain nice and tight. Over time, the rubber teeth would wear down causing unwanted slack in the timing chain. Post 1990 til now, GM modified their game plan and redesigned a larger metal tensioner, one that would not wear down after 100 000km. So, that being said, you don't have to worry, your tensioner is fine. In my case however, when the timing got fixed, the service guys noticed my pre-1990 3800 had a METAL tensioner already, so, they were confused. They typed in and ordered a rubber tensioner. Well part A from my car didn't match part B from GM. Bells went off....ding ding ding, was this a rebuilt engine? was it a swap?. My car was custom built order from GM, I have a lot of high end features for an SE so for some reason the factory installed a metal tensioner. To correct the inconsistancy, the dealer re-ordered me a new metal tensioner.

Put it this way, you've had the timing (code 41) thing dealt with...don't sweat it anymore...

Oh...enjoy the full meal deal

Fe1, Fe9

F41 baby

I'll check the info in the trunk and send you what I find.
Once I have the ratios, how do I check to make sure they are the same that the car is running, or can I even change them?